Down to the Wire: De Bethune’s In-House Hairsprings
De Bethune is set to bring hairspring production in-house, positioning itself among a select group of watchmakers capable of processing alloy wire into finished balance hairsprings. This initiative involves mastering a range of complex processes, including wire drawing, rolling, cutting, heat treatment, and assembly. The move is motivated by the desire to create bespoke hairsprings that can be precisely adjusted to fit specific balance wheels and movements, enhancing the brand's reputation for chronometric precision. While the decision to manufacture hairsprings in-house aligns with De Bethune’s commitment to innovation, it also highlights the challenges of such an endeavor, given the demanding nature of the production process. Few brands undertake this due to the economies of scale required, which is evident from comparisons with sister companies that successfully produce large quantities of hairsprings. Should De Bethune achieve success in this venture, it may become an appealing target for luxury groups seeking to enhance their technical capabilities.
