Newsletter
Issue #277 | Buying Time - October 27, 2026
Audemars Piguet puts its name behind pre-owned trading, independents reveal their mechanics, and auction bidders put confidence to the test.
review
The PS Horology Tsuba En is a highly exclusive watch limited to just ten pieces, created through the long‑standing friendship between master watchmaker Peter Speake and Japanese watch specialist Kinya Mishima. Drawing inspiration from the Japanese tsuba, the timepiece combines a guilloché‑patterned German‑silver dial plated in 3N
comparisons
The day‑of‑the‑week complication appears on fewer watches than the date, yet it plays a significant role in watch design. Rolex pioneered the fully spelled‑out display with its iconic Day‑Date, offering the day in 26 languages and positioning it prominently above the crown. Other brands such
New Watches
Nomadic’s Dána 141 marks the brand’s first rectangular dress watch, expanding beyond its tool‑watch heritage while retaining industrial‑inspired design cues. The 28 mm × 39.6 mm case is thin at 8.3 mm, featuring a stainless‑steel construction with a brushed‑polished finish, an exhibition case‑
Audemars Piguet puts its name behind pre-owned trading, independents reveal their mechanics, and auction bidders put confidence to the test.
Zenith moves upmarket, eight Rolexes fail to sell, and collectors ask what luxury is worth when it is time to cash out.
From a multimillion-dollar Patek collection to affordable watches with attitude, today’s issue explores what gives a watch an identity worth owning.
From battlefield Tudors to tomorrow’s independent icons, today’s issue asks what gives a watch a story worth keeping—and a price worth paying.
Rolex premiums face a reality check, AP moves into certified pre-owned, and collectors rediscover what makes a watch worth the money.
Record crowds, independent vision, and a gold Daytona put the spotlight on what makes a watch worth owning.
Feature
Girard‑Perregaux’s manufacture showcases a deep heritage of in‑house movement development and meticulous finishing, from early innovations such as the first COS‑C certified quartz movement to modern breakthroughs like the Constant Escapement introduced in 2013. The brand’s history is marked by pioneering achievements, including the 1970s
review
The Oris Aquis Kelp Forest Limited Edition watch combines a striking ocean‑green dial with a light‑green kelp‑forest pattern, created through 3D printing to raise awareness of declining kelp ecosystems. Inspired by award‑winning underwater photographer Francis Pérez, the watch features a textured dial reminiscent of linen guilloche,
Feature
The piece continues a series that pairs each NFL team with a watch reflecting its history, culture, or identity. Starting with the Arizona Cardinals, it highlights a violet‑toned timepiece honoring the league’s first female owner, and moves through teams such as the Los Angeles Rams, Tampa Bay Buccaneers,
Feature
TAG Heuer Aquaracer watches have evolved from reliable entry‑level divers into sophisticated luxury tools, blending the brand’s motorsport heritage with a rich history of underwater engineering dating back to 1892. The collection now offers a range of models—including the titanium‑cased Professional 300 Tribute to Ref. 844,
review
Wren’s Vessel Meteorite watch marks a bold departure from the brand’s vintage‑inspired dive‑watch roots, presenting a futuristic integrated sports watch that centers on a faceted 904L stainless‑steel case and crystal. Designed by Max Resnick under Craig Karger’s direction, the 39 mm square case features
auctions
The Rolex Ref. 6062 Triple Calendar Moon Phase in steel is a rare vintage Oyster model noted for its original condition, shallow back engraving, and distinctive gold‑tone hands and indices on a steel case. With only two owners over about eighty years, the watch retains its water‑resistant case,
video
The video explains that a price around $2,000 represents the ideal balance between cost and quality for luxury watches. At this price point, manufacturers can incorporate reliable movements, durable materials, and refined design without the premium markup seen in higher-end pieces, making the watch both a functional timepiece
Feature
The FHH Watch Summit in New York highlighted education as a critical driver for the future of watchmaking, urging greater investment in training, career development, and knowledge sharing. Industry leaders emphasized the need to nurture new talent, preserve traditional craftsmanship, and improve consumer understanding of watchmaking processes, noting that AI
Feature
The rise in watch and jewellery crime is forcing retailers to rethink security, staff training, and insurance. In the UK, armed attacks on retailers surged by 266% compared with the previous year, with 38 robberies and more than £4 million in stolen valuables recorded between January and August 2026. In
editorial
Zenith is undertaking a strategic repositioning that involves a staff consultation at its Le Locle manufacture, affecting roughly half of its 196 employees and an additional 101 roles in its international distribution network. The company plans to shift from its traditional CHF 8,000‑15,000 core price band to
News
Audemars Piguet has launched “The Watch Keepers,” a certified pre‑owned program that creates a secure, community‑driven marketplace for second‑hand watches in Switzerland and Continental Europe. Owners register, provide serial numbers and proof of ownership, and send eligible watches—originally sold at least two years ago—to an
video
The story highlights an innovative Parisian watch brand that combines meticulous craftsmanship with striking aesthetics, creating a design that stands out in the contemporary watchmaking landscape. By focusing on both functional precision and visual appeal, the brand demonstrates how traditional techniques can be infused with modern creativity to produce timepieces
News
Richard Mille’s European sales fell 7% in 2025, dropping from CHF 302 million to CHF 280 million, while the Middle East market more than doubled its revenue, rising from CHF 102 million to CHF 218 million. Despite the regional slowdown, operating profit improved by 29%, increasing from CHF 141
review
The review describes the purchase of a pre‑owned Hermès Cape Cod ref. CC1.710, a stainless‑steel watch with a gray sunburst dial and the brand’s distinctive Chaîne d’Ancre‑inspired bracelet design. The author discovered the piece on a Dutch watch forum, negotiated the price down to
New Watches
The Full‑White Hautlence Sphere Series 5 is a limited‑edition watch released on October 27 2026, featuring a white‑coated titanium sphere that displays jumping hours on three axes, complemented by a retrograde minute hand with Super‑LumiNova accents. Housed in a rectangular grade‑5 titanium case measuring 37
Feature
The piece explores the deep-rooted connection between watches and automobiles, tracing its origins to early motor racing where precise timekeeping was essential for speed and distance calculations. It highlights how pocket chronographs and dashboard-mounted timers evolved into wristwatch chronographs, giving rise to iconic models such as the Omega
Feature
Audermars Piguet has launched its certified pre‑owned program, The Watch Keepers, operating on a consignment model that requires watches to be at least two years old before sellers can list them. The service authenticates each piece using the brand’s archives, assigns a five‑point condition grade, provides professional
News
Audermars Piguet has launched “The Watch Keepers,” a digital marketplace that facilitates the sale and auction of certified pre‑owned Audemars Piguet watches. The platform, initially available in Switzerland and Europe, allows approved sellers to send watches to the brand for expert examination, certification, photography, and listing at a set
New Watches
Rado’s DiaStar Original Skeleton receives an autumn-inspired update, featuring two new gold‑toned models that combine the brand’s proprietary Ceramos composite—high‑tech ceramic with metal—for a shatter‑proof, scratch‑resistant case. The 38 mm helmet‑shaped case is finished in either warm rose gold or
New Watches
The 417 ES Chronograph collaboration between Hanhart, 0260 and BAIT revives a never‑produced racing model from the 1950s, presenting a compact 39 mm stainless‑steel case with a bidirectional fluted bezel, continuous rotation and a domed sapphire crystal. Its dial is offered in two colourways—black with cream sub‑
review
The Armin Strom Minute Repeater Resonance 12:59 First Edition is a limited‑edition 42 mm titanium watch that combines a minute repeater with a novel “demonstration mode” allowing the watch to chime 12:59 on demand. Its four‑hammer Westminster carillon, coupled oscillators, and elastic resonance clutch spring deliver
review
The Berneron Mirage 38 Prussian Blue is an avant‑garde limited‑edition watch that pushes the boundaries of conventional design through intentional distortion of its case, dial, hands, and movement. Crafted entirely in 18 k white gold, the 38 mm × 34 mm case is asymmetrically shaped using Fibonacci‑derived geometry,
review
The Baume & Mercier Riviera Chronograph GPSI Limited Edition blends classic racing heritage with refined aesthetics, featuring a substantial 41 mm stainless‑steel case, integrated lugs, and a striking dodecagonal bezel. Its dial departs from typical chronograph layouts, offering a clean matte white opaline surface accented by forest‑green rings
review
The TAG Heuer Monaco Chronograph was examined hands‑on at Feldmar Watch Company in Los Angeles, revealing a striking blue dial with opaline finish, silver chronograph counters, and red accents that blend modern styling with the model’s historic square case. Constructed from grade‑5 titanium, the 39 mm, 13.
review
The Renaud Tixier Monday Skeleton watch represents a collaborative breakthrough between seasoned horologists Dominique Renaud and Julien Tixier, merging decades of expertise with fresh creativity. Building on the original Monday’s patented micro‑rotor winding system, the new skeletonized version showcases the Caliber RVI2025, a fully exposed movement that retains
review
The Louis Moinet 1816 Tourbillon Chronograph combines a monopusher chronograph with an off‑center flying tourbillon, housed in a 40.6 mm Grade 5 titanium case that blends polished and satin‑brushed surfaces. Developed with Concepto, the LM114 movement features a column wheel, horizontal clutch, and a blue DLC‑coated
podcast
The episode features Chris Alexander, known as the Dial Artist, who shares his experiences from Watchmakers United, visits to Hautlence and Sartory‑Billard, and highlights from recent releases such as Hublot’s collaboration with Jeff Koons and the Bulgari × Vianney Halter Octo Finissimo. He also recounts a memorable trip to
Newsletter
Zenith moves upmarket, eight Rolexes fail to sell, and collectors ask what luxury is worth when it is time to cash out.
editorial
Zenith should become the mechanical core of LVMH’s watchmaking, serving as the group’s official movement manufacturer and technical authority.
Feature
The piece explores the appeal of cushion‑shaped watches as an alternative to the dominant round designs, highlighting how their softened square forms attract attention while offering diverse stylistic options. It presents a curated selection of six notable models, each illustrated with key specifications, design details, and price points, ranging
Feature
The Rolex GMT‑Master ref. 6542 was introduced in the late 1950s as a pioneering tool for pilots and international travelers, offering a dual‑time zone display through a red‑and‑blue 24‑hour rotating bezel and an additional 24‑hour hand. Its distinctive “Pepsi” bezel quickly became iconic, while
review
PANOM’s debut watch, TheHive, aims to put Luxembourg on the map of serious watchmaking by offering a limited run of 150 pieces that combine a striking honeycomb dial with an open‑heart window showcasing a Swiss SOPROD M100 Squelette automatic movement. Housed in a 40.5mm 316L stainless‑steel
comparisons
The comparison evaluates the Citizen Promaster Navihawk 40 and the Timex Expedition Field Chronograph as affordable chronographs, highlighting how price influences features, build quality, and user experience. Citizen’s Navihawk offers Eco‑Drive technology, a sophisticated slide‑rule bezel, sapphire crystal, 200 m water resistance, and a refined stainless‑steel
Feature
The Hour Glass boutique at 108 King Street showcases a striking blend of modernist architecture and independent horology, transforming a Harry Seidler‑designed building into a cultural landmark for Australian watch enthusiasts. The ground floor features dramatic curved geometry, a flowing staircase with integrated digital displays, and a curated selection
Feature
Bvlgari’s 2026 Octo Finissimo collection introduces a new 37 mm case size, shifting focus from record‑breaking thinness to a more wearable, mature design. The three automatic models—sandblasted titanium, polished titanium and yellow gold—feature the newly developed BVF 100 calibre, which is 20 % more compact and offers
video
High‑end watches such as Omega, Rolex, and Cartier are presented as more than mere status symbols; they are portrayed as enduring investments that combine meticulous craftsmanship with lasting value. The narrative emphasizes how these luxury timepieces blend aesthetic appeal with financial prudence, appealing to collectors who seek both prestige
video
The piece explores a watch curation challenge held at the Windup Watch Fair in New York City, where participants assembled collections across dive, dress, field, and GADA categories. It highlights the creativity and expertise of the watch community, emphasizing how each curator’s choices reflect personal taste and deep knowledge
video
The video emphasizes the importance of avoiding excessive spending on luxury watches, urging viewers to prioritize value and financial prudence over the allure of high price tags. It highlights how consumers can benefit from careful consideration of cost versus benefit, encouraging mindful purchasing decisions that align with personal budgets. By
comparisons
The comparison pits the new Orient Flusso against the established Tissot PRX 40mm Powermatic 80, focusing on design, dimensions, and price. The Flusso draws inspiration from Orient’s 1970s‑80s Super King heritage, featuring a 39 mm stainless‑steel case, sunburst dial options, integrated flat‑link bracelet, sapphire crystal, 100
video
The video examines Zenith’s recent difficulties, focusing on the challenges the brand has faced in the market and the impact of leadership transitions. It highlights how strategic decisions and external pressures have contributed to a period of turbulence for the company, offering context that is valuable for both watch
video
Lil Pump’s recent video showcases a swift cash-out maneuver that underscores how sudden financial moves can shape market perception and influence fan engagement. By highlighting the rapid sale of assets, the footage illustrates the potential ripple effects such actions have on both the cryptocurrency space and broader investment
video
The documentary explores the innovative work of Aurelia Horology, emphasizing how the preservation and understanding of horological heritage can deepen our appreciation of time. By showcasing the craftsmanship behind modern timekeeping, it illustrates the connection between historical practices and contemporary life. Through vivid storytelling and visual detail, the film demonstrates
New Watches
The full‑platinum bracelet returns on a limited edition A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Perpetual, featuring a glossy black dial set with eleven baguette‑cut diamonds and a five‑row 950‑platinum bracelet that alternates brushed and polished links. The watch maintains the classic chronograph‑perpetual calendar movement (calibre L952.
Feature
The piece traces the evolution of chronometer certifications from early precision breakthroughs in the 17th century to modern standards, highlighting key milestones such as the British Royal Observatory’s first timing trials, the establishment of observatory certificates like the Kew “A” rating, and the development of the Geneva Seal. It
News
Zenith is shifting its strategy toward high‑end watchmaking, announcing the elimination of about 200 jobs as part of a restructuring aimed at improving profitability after years of losses and challenging market conditions. CEO Benoît de Clerk cited a strong franc, US tariffs, and weak demand in the Middle East
Feature
Van Cleef & Arpels marks two decades of its “Poetry of Time” philosophy by showcasing a collection of poetic complications—mechanical marvels that tell stories through animated scenes on the dial. From the Lady Arpels Centenaire’s seasonal disc to the butterfly automaton of the Papillon Automate, each piece blends