New Watches
Renaud Tixier’s Monday Skeleton reimagines the brand’s 2024 micro-rotor watch by removing the dial and skeletonising the remaining movement plate. Founded in 2023 by experienced watchmaker Dominique Renaud and Julien Tixier, the brand developed an auxiliary winding system that uses a platinum inertia flywheel and a “dancer”
New Watches
Maen has added the Grand Tonneau Jump Hour to its permanent collection, building on the design of its 2025 collaboration with Nico Leonard. The 34mm-wide stainless steel tonneau case measures 9.7mm thick, offers 50m water resistance, and features brushed and polished surfaces, a sapphire crystal, and a display
comparisons
The Casio Duro, Seiko 5 SRPD51, and Citizen Promaster Eco-Drive offer distinct strengths at roughly $50, $200, and $350. The Duro delivers impressive value with 200-meter water resistance, a satisfying bezel, and comfortable wear, while the Seiko adds an automatic movement, engaging mechanical features, and attractive styling. The
A $203 million auction weekend, independent watchmaking’s creative roots, and the many ways a watch earns its price.
Geneva’s record auction, independent watchmaking’s creative pulse, and a Vacheron that puts its calendar on display.
From Geneva’s biggest winners to the watch you might design yourself, today’s BuyingTime explores what makes a timepiece matter.
Independent watchmaking builds its future, Subdial accelerates, and a freshly serviced Lange brings substance to the auction block.
Rolex buyers push back, watchmakers push boundaries, and a rose-gold Patek Cubitus tests what collectors are willing to pay.
From Casio’s factory floor to Patek’s grand complications, today’s watches ask what makes craftsmanship, utility, and heritage worth paying for.
podcast
The episode features Hodinkee senior editor Mark Kauzlarich discussing his first time serving on the 2026 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève jury. He explains how the jury’s voting and deliberations work, reflects on presenting the Gemset Watch Prize, and considers what the awards mean for the winners and
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A new wave of independent watchmakers is gaining recognition for combining distinctive design with ambitious mechanical innovation. From Sylvain Berneron’s geometrically conceived cases and Mathieu Cleguer’s original escapement to Takahiko Aigaki’s natural-escapement tourbillon, these makers pursue personal ideas developed through carefully considered movement architecture, inventive complications,
video
Eric Wind, founder of Wind Vintage, began his career as a watch specialist and vice president at Christie’s New York before launching his own business in 2017. He aims to educate people about vintage and modern watches and encourage them to become thoughtful, knowledgeable collectors. Wind’s collection includes
video
Panerai’s connection with the Italian Navy dates to the early 1900s, when it supplied precision instruments before later producing watches. The Submersible line, introduced in 1998, is a rugged, military-inspired collection alongside the better-known Luminor and Radiomir. The new Marina Militare Submersible PAM01757 and PAM01758 share a
News
Subdial has raised $20 million to accelerate its growth, expand its inventory and enter the US market. Already trading at an annualised rate of about $100 million, the pre-owned luxury watch business has been profitable since early 2026 and has doubled in size over the past 18 months without
News
Subdial has secured a $20 million funding package to accelerate UK growth and establish a major US operation in 2027. The investment combines a Series B equity round led by Gresham House Ventures, participation from existing backers, and a debt facility expected to close shortly. Co-founder Christy Davis will
News
Fossil Group reported a third-quarter 2026 net profit of $11.7 million, reversing a $39.9 million loss a year earlier, as sales rose 2% to $271.2 million at constant currency. Analogue watch sales grew 6.4%, and Fossil-branded watches increased 13.6%. Operating profit reached $25.
comparisons
Five often-overlooked Rolex models offer distinctive histories and features at prices that can be more accessible than sought-after Submariners and Daytonas. The Datejust Turn-O-Graph combines a rotating white-gold bezel with a durable Caliber 3135; the Explorer II 16570 offers a classic 40mm GMT with Caliber
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Audemars Piguet’s Code 11.59 collection has evolved since its controversial 2019 debut, using its distinctive case design as a platform for experiments in materials, colors, and high complications. New 2026 releases include a 41mm Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon with a ceramic-and-white-gold case and a 38mm Selfwinding
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Moon-phase watches translate the lunar cycle—about 29 days, 12 hours, and 44 minutes—into a mechanical display. Traditional models use a 59-tooth wheel and two moon images, advancing the disk once per day; this simple design loses about eight hours annually and needs correction roughly every three
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The Seiko Astron GPS Solar SAST001 was launched in 2012 as the world’s first GPS solar watch, using GPS signals to determine the wearer’s location and automatically display the correct local time. Its 47mm blackened titanium case, ceramic bezel, layered three-dimensional dial, and prominent copper accents give
New Watches
Panerai has expanded its Marina Militare Submersible collection with the Destro PAM01757 and GMT PAM01758, two steel dive watches with brushed cases, black ceramic bezel inserts, textured black dials, and 500-metre water resistance. The 44mm PAM01757 places its crown on the left and uses the automatic P.980 calibre,
New Watches
The Urwerk UR-101 Green Mamba updates the model first introduced in 1997 with a restrained black-and-green design. Its 41mm matte steel case has black PVD coating, an asymmetrical silhouette, a metallised sapphire crystal and 30m water resistance. The wandering-hours display uses two rotating satellites to show
review
The Christopher Ward C1 Jump Hour XV revives the brand’s original 2011 C9 Harrison design with a more compact, refined 39mm case and updated details. Its traditional styling, sapphire box crystal, leather strap, and highly legible jump-hour display pair a prominent hour window with a blue minute hand
review
The Panerai Submersible Marina Militare PAM01757 Destro and PAM01758 GMT pair military-inspired dive-watch design with contemporary features. Both have brushed stainless steel cases, matte black dials with beige Super-LumiNova, ceramic bezel inserts, 500-meter water resistance, three-day power reserves, and leather and rubber straps. The 44mm
Newsletter
A $203 million auction weekend, independent watchmaking’s creative roots, and the many ways a watch earns its price.
New Watches
Angelier’s new Dress Watch is a compact, vintage-inspired model drawing on 1930s–40s designs, including the Patek Philippe Calatrava 96. Its 37.2mm stainless steel case is 8.7mm thick, with a box-shaped sapphire crystal, 50m water resistance and four dial options featuring applied Breguet-style Arabic
New Watches
The Krayon Anywhere Magnolia is a limited-edition watch that displays sunrise and sunset times for a location selected by its owner. Its black onyx dial features hand-painted magnolia petals that move through the year to indicate sunrise and sunset, alongside a 24-hour scale and date and month
New Watches
The Praesidus Montar Ana-Digi is a 1980s-inspired military-style watch that marks a departure from the brand’s traditional field-watch designs. Its 44mm black-coated stainless steel case features a rotating compass and dive-timer bezel, four pushers, and a layered display combining analog hands with a
New Watches
Albishorn’s Voisin Aérosport is a compact Art Deco-inspired watch named after the Voisin C28 Aérosport. Available in Classic and Ice Blue dial versions, it features a 38mm stainless steel case, a distinctive two-sided wandering-seconds display at 4 o’clock, and a manually wound, COSC-certified movement
New Watches
The Orient Bambino Version 7 introduces a smaller 36.4mm case, addressing a longstanding concern with the collection’s larger proportions. Its clean, date-free dial features applied baton markers and dauphine-style hands, with four versions available in white, cream, muted green, and silver with a gold-tone case.
review
The A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Perpetual ref. 410.136E pairs the established perpetual-calendar chronograph with a platinum bracelet and discreet diamond hour markers. Its black dial with silver sub-dials recalls the original Datograph, while the substantial platinum case and bracelet give the watch a weighty feel. The
events
The Horological Society of New York will hold its inaugural Chronometry Talks on December 3–4, 2026, at the Morgan Library & Museum in New York City. This new annual symposium explores the history, science, craft, and future of timekeeping, including its influence on navigation, scientific progress, manufacturing, and society.
podcast
Fratello On Air explores German watch brands, drawing on hosts Balazs and Mike’s personal experiences and appreciation for the country’s watchmaking. The conversation begins with Mike’s 1947 Breitling Chronomat 769 and a story about demagnetizing it, while Balazs wears an Albishorn Type X-Graph. The hosts discuss
auctions
Geneva’s fall watch auctions underscored Phillips’ dominance, with a record $112.3 million sale, while Christie's also achieved a record Geneva total. Auction activity and attention appear to be shifting toward New York, reflecting its growing importance in the market. F.P. Journe watches delivered remarkable prices,
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Andrew and James discuss upcoming watches expected to attract strong demand. The conversation helps watch enthusiasts anticipate which releases may be difficult to obtain. The episode focuses on emerging interest in hard-to-get watches, though no specific models or details are provided.
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Daniela and Sandy at TAG Heuer in Las Vegas offer an exclusive first look at two new Carrera watches created for the 2026 Las Vegas Formula 1 Grand Prix. The watches are very limited editions and will be available only at the Forum Shops at Caesars Palace and the shops
News
Watches of Switzerland Group reported a 15% year-on-year increase in revenue to £974 million for the six months to November 1, 2026. The strong first-half performance led the company to raise its FY27 revenue growth forecast to 7–10% and its expected adjusted EBIT margin improvement to
News
Geneva’s November 2026 watch auctions at Phillips, Christie’s, and Sotheby’s generated a combined $203 million, setting records for total sales and several individual lots. Phillips led with $112.3 million, followed by Christie’s at $58.7 million, while Sotheby’s contributed more than $32 million. F.
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Independent watchmaking has grown into a celebrated field, shaped by generations of innovators who combined technical skill, personal vision and entrepreneurial independence. The AHCI, founded in 1985 by Vincent Calabrese and Svend Andersen, helped build a community for these makers. Their pioneering work spans inventive movements and complications, bold designs,
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Konstantin Chaykin’s SC02C is a limited-edition chronograph shaped by a Roscosmos research program that began in 2018. Watches developed through the program accompanied four spacewalks, including a six-hour outing in May 2026. Designed as a dependable backup when radio communication is interrupted, the SC02C features a clear
New Watches
Yema’s Senans Grande Lune CMM.22 Limited Edition is the brand’s first moonphase watch and the opening model in a new collection. Its contemporary 38.5mm stainless steel case pairs stepped, alternating brushed and polished surfaces with a black guilloché dial and an oversized luminous moonphase display. Blue
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Jaeger-LeCoultre’s eighth “The Collectibles” capsule collection explores the brand’s ties to the American market ahead of the United States’ 250th anniversary. Its watches reflect how tariffs, local tastes, and demand for novelty shaped distinctive designs, including American-made cases, English calendar discs, and early sport watches. Product
events
Seiko marked its 145th anniversary with an event at Watersedge in Sydney’s The Rocks, bringing together about 150 collectors, retail partners, media and guests. Attendees explored anniversary releases alongside Prospex, King Seiko and Presage, with interactive experiences including racing simulators, Japanese calligraphy and cocktail bars. The collection’s gold,
review
The Venezianico Nereide Opale Blu pairs a 42mm steel diver’s case with a distinctive blue-and-green lab-grown opal dial made by Kyocera. Limited to 600 pieces, it has a 200-meter water-resistance rating, a tungsten bezel insert, a 120-click unidirectional bezel, luminous markers and hands,
comparisons
The $6,300 Omega Seamaster Diver 300M and the $270 Timex Deepwater Meridian 200 share a modern dive-watch aesthetic but take different approaches. Omega offers a METAS-certified automatic movement, a green ceramic dial and bezel, refined case finishing, and 300-meter water resistance. Timex pairs a dependable quartz
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Time-only watches strip away complications to focus on the essentials, letting design, proportions, and craftsmanship take center stage. Their simplicity also makes them versatile, from refined dress watches to robust everyday models. The selection ranges from affordable options such as the Timex Marlin to high-end pieces including the
New Watches
Albishorn’s Voisin Aerosport expands the independent brand’s “imaginary vintage” collection with a dress chronometer inspired by Gabriel Voisin’s aviation and automotive designs, particularly the 1930s C28 Aérosport. Its 38mm stainless steel case combines fluid, aerodynamic lines with stepped surfaces and contrasting finishes. A three-layer sector dial
New Watches
Vacheron Constantin has updated the Fiftysix Self-Winding and Complete Calendar with 40mm stainless steel cases, more varied brushed and polished finishes, two-tone grey sector dials, box-shaped sapphire crystals and grey nubuck straps. The Self-Winding has a light grey opaline centre that darkens toward the chapter ring,
New Watches
MB&F has introduced three limited editions of the LM101 featuring cloisonné enamel dials by Gabriel Colliard. Each platinum watch depicts a colourful animal scene—monkeys in blue, macaws in red, or a crocodile in green—composed around the LM101’s suspended balance wheel and sculptural movement. To make
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Omega’s Speedmaster lineup had a relatively quiet 2026, with new releases including the stainless-steel and 18K Moonshine gold “Reverse Panda” Moonwatch, a green-dial gold model inspired by Rory McIlroy, and seven updated Speedmaster 38 variations. The collection includes 92 of Omega’s 535 catalog references, following a
Newsletter
Geneva’s record auction, independent watchmaking’s creative pulse, and a Vacheron that puts its calendar on display.
review
The Orient Star Skeleton 75th Anniversary Flagship Model RE-BR0001N celebrates 75 years of the brand and 35 years of its skeleton watches. Limited to 130 pieces, it introduces the F9B82 movement in a 40 mm stainless steel case with zaratsu polishing, an open-worked dial plate, and a distinctive
events
WatchPro’s Women in Watches event, held in Miami on November 6 in association with headline sponsor WOLF, brought together industry leaders, brand representatives and watch experts for discussion and networking. The first panel explored career progression, leadership, recruitment and pathways into the watch industry, highlighting transferable skills and opportunities
events
Time to Drive Miami Car & Watch Fest debuted at Mana Wynwood on November 7–8, 2026, bringing around 25 watch brands, retailers, dealers, and collectors together with car enthusiasts. A VVIP lounge, cigar and drink service, and an Assouline Porsche book complemented the show floor, where the strong turnout
video
Tony Traina, a former Hodinkee editor and creator of the Unpolished newsletter, shares the story behind his personal watch collection. The lineup is largely vintage and deliberately eclectic, spanning accessible brands such as Swatch and Seiko alongside notable pieces from Rolex, Jaeger-LeCoultre, and Cartier. The collection also includes a
