New Watches

Moritz Grossmann Benu 1878 Celebrates German Watchmaking Heritage in a 26-Piece Limited Edition

The Moritz Grossmann Benu 1878 commemorates the 200th birthday of the brand’s founder and the 18th anniversary of its revival. Its German silver dial features a three-dimensional relief engraving of the German School of Watchmaking, founded by Karl Moritz Grossmann in Glashütte in 1878. The watch is limited

New Watches

Hublot Big Bang Soldier All Black Watch Review

The Hublot Big Bang Soldier All Black is a 42mm ceramic chronograph created with London-based Nigerian artist Leonard Iheagwam, known as Soldier. Limited to 50 pieces, it features an all-black design with silhouetted toy soldiers arranged in a bandolier across the bezel and dial, and a small-seconds

New Watches

TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 300 × Time+Tide Sundowner II: Automatic Titanium Edition

The TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 300 × Time+Tide Sundowner II builds on the original Solargraph collaboration with a larger 42mm sandblasted Grade 2 titanium case, rose-tone details, a gray ceramic bezel insert, and a black wave-pattern dial without a date. Its COSC-certified automatic TH31-01 movement offers

New Watches

Garrick S8: A Masterfully Finished British Watch with Timeless Appeal

The Garrick S8 is a 39mm, 8mm-thick time-only watch praised for its balanced proportions, practical 100m water resistance, and extensively skeletonized manual-winding movement. Its caliber offers approximately 60 hours of power reserve and is distinguished by hand-finished bridges and wheels, sharp internal angles, black polishing, and

New Watches

Sartory-Billard SB04-E Shanga Features a Tanzanian Recycled-Glass Dial

Sartory-Billard’s SB04-E Shanga is a limited-edition watch created with Shanga, a Tanzanian workshop that supports local artisans and people with disabilities through recycled-material crafts. Its deep-blue glass dial is handcrafted in Arusha, with pigment folded into the glass to create a swirling pattern. The

video

How A. Lange & Söhne Became a Chronograph Powerhouse | Anthony de Haas & Wei Koh - YouTube - Revolution Watch

Wei Koh interviews A. Lange & Söhne’s Anthony de Haas about the manufacture’s rise as a defining name in modern chronograph watchmaking. They trace the story from the Datograph and Günter Blümlein’s vision through de Haas’s arrival in 2004 and the development of watches including the

video

The Apple Watch Ultra 4 Broke My Watch Collection - YouTube - YoureTerrific

The video explores the tension between collecting mechanical watches and frequently choosing the Apple Watch Ultra 4. It also reflects on how smartwatches first sparked an interest in watch collecting. It covers the creator’s daily watch setup and argues that Apple’s straps compare favorably with those from luxury

video

Inside Subdial's $20M Raise: What's Next For The Watch Trading Platform - YouTube - Subdial

Subdial, a luxury watch trading platform, raised $20 million in a Series B round to support growth in the UK and its planned US launch. Co-founders Christy Davis and Ross Crane discuss the company’s journey from a kitchen-table idea to a business expecting more than £100 million

video

Gen X | Stop Waiting, Buy the Damn Watch - YouTube - That Watch Girl

Generation X men who have spent decades working, raising families, paying bills, and putting others first are beginning to embrace the idea that life is too short to keep postponing what they want. Six men aged 44 to 62 reflect on whether this shift is a midlife crisis or a

video

Best Watches That Go With Every Outfit You Own - YouTube - Scott Adam Lancaster

The video presents 11 watches considered versatile enough to suit a wide range of outfits and occasions. It focuses on options for a one-watch collection that can be worn anytime and anywhere. The recommendations reflect the creator’s personal opinions about which watches offer the greatest versatility. No specific

New Watches

Tangens Komposition Automatic Storm Collection Debuts in Dusty Blue and Purple

Tangens has expanded its Komposition Automatic collection with the Storm capsule, featuring dusty blue and dusty purple dials inspired by Denmark’s autumn skies. The new matte, velvet-like finish distinguishes them from the brushed and grained dials of the earlier models, while applied markers, luminous hands, and a no-

New Watches

Renaud Tixier Unveils a Skeletonised Monday Watch

Renaud Tixier’s Monday Skeleton reimagines the brand’s 2024 micro-rotor watch by removing the dial and skeletonising the remaining movement plate. Founded in 2023 by experienced watchmaker Dominique Renaud and Julien Tixier, the brand developed an auxiliary winding system that uses a platinum inertia flywheel and a “dancer”

New Watches

Maen Adds the Grand Tonneau Jump Hour to Its Permanent Collection

Maen has added the Grand Tonneau Jump Hour to its permanent collection, building on the design of its 2025 collaboration with Nico Leonard. The 34mm-wide stainless steel tonneau case measures 9.7mm thick, offers 50m water resistance, and features brushed and polished surfaces, a sapphire crystal, and a display

comparisons

Casio Duro vs. Seiko 5 vs. Citizen Promaster: Which Affordable Dive Watch Is Best?

The Casio Duro, Seiko 5 SRPD51, and Citizen Promaster Eco-Drive offer distinct strengths at roughly $50, $200, and $350. The Duro delivers impressive value with 200-meter water resistance, a satisfying bezel, and comfortable wear, while the Seiko adds an automatic movement, engaging mechanical features, and attractive styling. The

podcast

Inside the GPHG Jury: Mark Kauzlarich on the Awards and Watch Industry

The episode features Hodinkee senior editor Mark Kauzlarich discussing his first time serving on the 2026 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève jury. He explains how the jury’s voting and deliberations work, reflects on presenting the Gemset Watch Prize, and considers what the awards mean for the winners and

Feature

The New Wave of Independent Watchmaking: 16 Innovators Shaping the Future

A new wave of independent watchmakers is gaining recognition for combining distinctive design with ambitious mechanical innovation. From Sylvain Berneron’s geometrically conceived cases and Mathieu Cleguer’s original escapement to Takahiko Aigaki’s natural-escapement tourbillon, these makers pursue personal ideas developed through carefully considered movement architecture, inventive complications,

video

Eric Wind on His ’60s-Era Rolex Daytona, Tudor Submariner & Universal Gèneve Polerouter | Watch Roll - YouTube

Eric Wind, founder of Wind Vintage, began his career as a watch specialist and vice president at Christie’s New York before launching his own business in 2017. He aims to educate people about vintage and modern watches and encourage them to become thoughtful, knowledgeable collectors. Wind’s collection includes

video

The Military Connection: The New Panerai Marina Militare Submersible Destro PAM01757 & GMT PAM01758 - YouTube - Monochrome Watches

Panerai’s connection with the Italian Navy dates to the early 1900s, when it supplied precision instruments before later producing watches. The Submersible line, introduced in 1998, is a rugged, military-inspired collection alongside the better-known Luminor and Radiomir. The new Marina Militare Submersible PAM01757 and PAM01758 share a

News

Subdial Raises $20 Million to Expand in the UK and US

Subdial has raised $20 million to accelerate its growth, expand its inventory and enter the US market. Already trading at an annualised rate of about $100 million, the pre-owned luxury watch business has been profitable since early 2026 and has doubled in size over the past 18 months without

News

Subdial Secures $20 Million to Expand in the UK and Launch in the US

Subdial has secured a $20 million funding package to accelerate UK growth and establish a major US operation in 2027. The investment combines a Series B equity round led by Gresham House Ventures, participation from existing backers, and a debt facility expected to close shortly. Co-founder Christy Davis will

News

Fossil Group Returns to Profit as Watch Sales Rebound and Turnaround Gains Momentum

Fossil Group reported a third-quarter 2026 net profit of $11.7 million, reversing a $39.9 million loss a year earlier, as sales rose 2% to $271.2 million at constant currency. Analogue watch sales grew 6.4%, and Fossil-branded watches increased 13.6%. Operating profit reached $25.

comparisons

Five Overlooked Rolex Watches Worth Considering by Collectors

Five often-overlooked Rolex models offer distinctive histories and features at prices that can be more accessible than sought-after Submariners and Daytonas. The Datejust Turn-O-Graph combines a rotating white-gold bezel with a durable Caliber 3135; the Explorer II 16570 offers a classic 40mm GMT with Caliber

Feature

Audemars Piguet’s Code 11.59 Collection Evolves with New 2026 Models

Audemars Piguet’s Code 11.59 collection has evolved since its controversial 2019 debut, using its distinctive case design as a platform for experiments in materials, colors, and high complications. New 2026 releases include a 41mm Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon with a ceramic-and-white-gold case and a 38mm Selfwinding

Feature

Moon-Phase Watches: How They Work and How to Set Them

Moon-phase watches translate the lunar cycle—about 29 days, 12 hours, and 44 minutes—into a mechanical display. Traditional models use a 59-tooth wheel and two moon images, advancing the disk once per day; this simple design loses about eight hours annually and needs correction roughly every three

Feature

Why I Still Own My Least-Worn Watch: The Seiko Astron GPS Solar SAST001

The Seiko Astron GPS Solar SAST001 was launched in 2012 as the world’s first GPS solar watch, using GPS signals to determine the wearer’s location and automatically display the correct local time. Its 47mm blackened titanium case, ceramic bezel, layered three-dimensional dial, and prominent copper accents give

New Watches

Panerai Launches Two Marina Militare Submersible Watches: Destro PAM01757 and GMT PAM01758

Panerai has expanded its Marina Militare Submersible collection with the Destro PAM01757 and GMT PAM01758, two steel dive watches with brushed cases, black ceramic bezel inserts, textured black dials, and 500-metre water resistance. The 44mm PAM01757 places its crown on the left and uses the automatic P.980 calibre,

New Watches

Urwerk UR-101 Green Mamba: A Black PVD Watch with Emerald Wandering Hours

The Urwerk UR-101 Green Mamba updates the model first introduced in 1997 with a restrained black-and-green design. Its 41mm matte steel case has black PVD coating, an asymmetrical silhouette, a metallised sapphire crystal and 30m water resistance. The wandering-hours display uses two rotating satellites to show

review

Christopher Ward C1 Jump Hour XV Review: A Refined Tribute to the Original JJ01

The Christopher Ward C1 Jump Hour XV revives the brand’s original 2011 C9 Harrison design with a more compact, refined 39mm case and updated details. Its traditional styling, sapphire box crystal, leather strap, and highly legible jump-hour display pair a prominent hour window with a blue minute hand

review

Introducing Panerai’s Military-Inspired Submersible Marina Militare Destro and GMT Watches

The Panerai Submersible Marina Militare PAM01757 Destro and PAM01758 GMT pair military-inspired dive-watch design with contemporary features. Both have brushed stainless steel cases, matte black dials with beige Super-LumiNova, ceramic bezel inserts, 500-meter water resistance, three-day power reserves, and leather and rubber straps. The 44mm

Newsletter

Issue #288 | Buying Time - November 11, 2026

A $203 million auction weekend, independent watchmaking’s creative roots, and the many ways a watch earns its price.

New Watches

Angelier Launches an Accessible Vintage-Inspired Dress Watch on Kickstarter

Angelier’s new Dress Watch is a compact, vintage-inspired model drawing on 1930s–40s designs, including the Patek Philippe Calatrava 96. Its 37.2mm stainless steel case is 8.7mm thick, with a box-shaped sapphire crystal, 50m water resistance and four dial options featuring applied Breguet-style Arabic

New Watches

Krayon Anywhere Magnolia: A Hand-Painted Tribute to Nature and Time

The Krayon Anywhere Magnolia is a limited-edition watch that displays sunrise and sunset times for a location selected by its owner. Its black onyx dial features hand-painted magnolia petals that move through the year to indicate sunrise and sunset, alongside a 24-hour scale and date and month

New Watches

Praesidus Montar Ana-Digi: An Affordable 1980s-Inspired Military Watch

The Praesidus Montar Ana-Digi is a 1980s-inspired military-style watch that marks a departure from the brand’s traditional field-watch designs. Its 44mm black-coated stainless steel case features a rotating compass and dive-timer bezel, four pushers, and a layered display combining analog hands with a

New Watches

Albishorn Unveils the Voisin Aérosport, Its Art Deco-Inspired Second Model

Albishorn’s Voisin Aérosport is a compact Art Deco-inspired watch named after the Voisin C28 Aérosport. Available in Classic and Ice Blue dial versions, it features a 38mm stainless steel case, a distinctive two-sided wandering-seconds display at 4 o’clock, and a manually wound, COSC-certified movement

New Watches

The 36mm Orient Bambino Addresses Two Longstanding Complaints

The Orient Bambino Version 7 introduces a smaller 36.4mm case, addressing a longstanding concern with the collection’s larger proportions. Its clean, date-free dial features applied baton markers and dauphine-style hands, with four versions available in white, cream, muted green, and silver with a gold-tone case.

review

Review: A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Perpetual with Platinum Bracelet and Diamond Indices

The A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Perpetual ref. 410.136E pairs the established perpetual-calendar chronograph with a platinum bracelet and discreet diamond hour markers. Its black dial with silver sub-dials recalls the original Datograph, while the substantial platinum case and bracelet give the watch a weighty feel. The

events

Horological Society of New York Launches Chronometry Talks at the Morgan Library & Museum

The Horological Society of New York will hold its inaugural Chronometry Talks on December 3–4, 2026, at the Morgan Library & Museum in New York City. This new annual symposium explores the history, science, craft, and future of timekeeping, including its influence on navigation, scientific progress, manufacturing, and society.

podcast

A Closer Look at German Watch Brands on Fratello On Air

Fratello On Air explores German watch brands, drawing on hosts Balazs and Mike’s personal experiences and appreciation for the country’s watchmaking. The conversation begins with Mike’s 1947 Breitling Chronomat 769 and a story about demagnetizing it, while Balazs wears an Albishorn Type X-Graph. The hosts discuss

auctions

Three Key Takeaways From Geneva’s Fall Watch Auctions

Geneva’s fall watch auctions underscored Phillips’ dominance, with a record $112.3 million sale, while Christie's also achieved a record Geneva total. Auction activity and attention appear to be shifting toward New York, reflecting its growing importance in the market. F.P. Journe watches delivered remarkable prices,

video

The Next Hard-To-Get Hype Watches - YouTube - A Podcast About Watches

Andrew and James discuss upcoming watches expected to attract strong demand. The conversation helps watch enthusiasts anticipate which releases may be difficult to obtain. The episode focuses on emerging interest in hard-to-get watches, though no specific models or details are provided.

video

I Got First Look At Tag Heuer's Secret Las Vegas Grand Prix Watches! - YouTube - ProducerMichael

Daniela and Sandy at TAG Heuer in Las Vegas offer an exclusive first look at two new Carrera watches created for the 2026 Las Vegas Formula 1 Grand Prix. The watches are very limited editions and will be available only at the Forum Shops at Caesars Palace and the shops

News

Watches of Switzerland Group Raises Full-Year Forecast as Sales Grow 15%

Watches of Switzerland Group reported a 15% year-on-year increase in revenue to £974 million for the six months to November 1, 2026. The strong first-half performance led the company to raise its FY27 revenue growth forecast to 7–10% and its expected adjusted EBIT margin improvement to

News

Geneva Watch Auctions Set Record with $203 Million in Sales

Geneva’s November 2026 watch auctions at Phillips, Christie’s, and Sotheby’s generated a combined $203 million, setting records for total sales and several individual lots. Phillips led with $112.3 million, followed by Christie’s at $58.7 million, while Sotheby’s contributed more than $32 million. F.

Feature

Independent Watchmaking Pioneers Who Shaped the Industry

Independent watchmaking has grown into a celebrated field, shaped by generations of innovators who combined technical skill, personal vision and entrepreneurial independence. The AHCI, founded in 1985 by Vincent Calabrese and Svend Andersen, helped build a community for these makers. Their pioneering work spans inventive movements and complications, bold designs,

Feature

How Spacewalks Inspired Konstantin Chaykin’s SC02C Watch

Konstantin Chaykin’s SC02C is a limited-edition chronograph shaped by a Roscosmos research program that began in 2018. Watches developed through the program accompanied four spacewalks, including a six-hour outing in May 2026. Designed as a dependable backup when radio communication is interrupted, the SC02C features a clear

New Watches

Yema Introduces Its First Moonphase Watch and New Senans Collection

Yema’s Senans Grande Lune CMM.22 Limited Edition is the brand’s first moonphase watch and the opening model in a new collection. Its contemporary 38.5mm stainless steel case pairs stepped, alternating brushed and polished surfaces with a black guilloché dial and an oversized luminous moonphase display. Blue