Newsletter
Issue #286 | Buying Time - November 9, 2026
From Geneva’s biggest winners to the watch you might design yourself, today’s BuyingTime explores what makes a timepiece matter.
Feature
The Best Citizen Watches of 2026: 9 Standout Picks for Every Budget
Citizen’s 2026 watch releases pair practical improvements with anniversary-driven experimentation. The lineup includes smaller cases, Eco-Drive solar movements, sapphire crystals, and capable sports models, from the $495 Tsuyosa Shore and Promaster Dive to the $1,295 Series 8. Standouts include the 39.5mm Promaster Land GMT, the
comparisons
Rolex Submariner vs. Citizen Promaster: Is the $11,000 Watch Worth 30 Times More?
The Rolex Submariner Date 116610 and Citizen Promaster BN0151-09L offer very different approaches to the dive watch. The Rolex stands out for its exceptional bracelet and Glidelock clasp, precise bezel, refined construction, sapphire crystal, and highly accurate automatic movement. The Citizen prioritizes practicality with an easy-to-read dial,
New Watches
Colombian Watchmaker Auret Unveils the Mederi, a 12-Sided Watch with Swiss Movement
Colombian brand Auret’s debut Mederi is a 40mm stainless steel watch with a distinctive 12-sided bezel, a guilloché dial with a gradient finish, and a Swiss Sellita SW260 automatic movement. Available in black, blue, and burgundy dial variants, it features a small-seconds display, sapphire crystals, 100 metres
video
Andrew’s Rolex Revenge: Titanium Yacht-Master vs Zach’s Land-Dweller - YouTube - Time+Tide Watches
Zach shanked Andrew in New York. Now it’s payback 😈. For the last 24 hours, Andrew was sitting on a secret: a brand-new Rolex Yacht-Master 42 in RLX titanium. Zach struck first with his Rolex Land-Dweller 36; now it's time for Andrew's Rolex
comparisons
Sinn U50 vs. Oris Aquis Date: Which Dive Watch Comes Out on Top?
The Sinn U50 and Oris Aquis Date are similarly priced dive watches with contrasting designs and strengths. The 41mm Sinn costs €2,660–€2,675, offers 500m water resistance, a slim 11.15mm case, and a 56-hour power reserve. Its advocates value its rugged, purpose-built character, comfort, technical
auctions
The Mystery of Breguet No. 2226 and Captain Denny’s New Zealand Connection
Breguet No. 2226 is a 47mm 18K gold hunter pocket watch sold in Paris in 1853 to a buyer recorded as “Capitaine Denny.” Its archive entry describes an enamel dial, small seconds, lever escapement, and compensated balance, while an engraved wheat-ear crest and the motto “æt mea messis erit”
Feature
7 standout wave-dial watches, from dive watches to luxury timepieces
Wave dials bring the sea’s shifting light and texture to a watch face, balancing depth and visual interest with clear readability. Their patterns may be stamped, engraved, or laser-cut, ranging from subtle ripples to bold, sculptural waves. The featured watches span accessible and luxury price points, from the
review
H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Cylindrical Tourbillon Skeleton Aventurine Saquon Barkley Edition Review
The H. Moser Pioneer Cylindrical Tourbillon Skeleton Aventurine Saquon Barkley Edition builds on the Spiced Aqua model, pairing a 42.8mm stainless steel case and 12 ATM water resistance with a skeletonized HMC 811 movement. Its one-minute flying tourbillon features a cylindrical hairspring, while the movement offers a 74-
video
The Only 7 Masterpiece Watches Ever Made - YouTube - Andrew Morgan Watches
Most watches are designed simply to tell time, but a rare few stand out as masterpieces of watchmaking. Their importance extends beyond their practical function. The selection considers seven watches from across watchmaking history, chosen for their craftsmanship and significance. No individual watches or further details are provided.
video
The Watch Design Challenge: Part Two | Good Times S04 EP01 - YouTube
Four watch collectors—Justin Hast, Salim Hammad, Tim Green, and Jake Ross—have moved from critiquing watches to designing their own from scratch. Each worked with a designer at a different location to create and present an original watch. Four industry experts judge the designs, contributing 50% of the results.
video
The 7 Deadly Sins of Watch Collecting - YouTube
The video explores seven common pitfalls in luxury watch collecting and offers guidance on avoiding them. Tim discusses how choices around gifting and payment can affect the experience. It also addresses social media and hating, encouraging collectors to avoid habits that sour the hobby. The goal is to help keep
News
2026 GPHG Awards: All 20 Winners and Their Watches
The 2026 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève awarded 20 prizes across 14 categories, recognizing a broad range of contemporary watchmaking. Rexhep Rexhepi won the “Aiguille d’Or” Grand Prix for his Chronograph Flyback, while other winners included Ferdinand Berthoud, Dominique Renaud, Konstantin Chaykin, Audemars Piguet, Blancpain, Parmigiani Fleurier, Grand
review
Farer Barnwell Pilot Series II: A Subtle, Refined Pilot’s Watch Review
The Farer Barnwell Pilot Series II offers a restrained take on the pilot’s watch, pairing a Type B dial, lozenge hands and oversized minute track with a warm brown dial, orange accents and a sky-blue minute scale. Its matte, 40mm titanium case has a burnished brown PVD coating
review
Serica Golden Green GMT Watch Review: An Enamel Dial and Travel-Ready Design
The Serica Travel Chronometer “Golden Green” GMT Ref. 8315-3 pairs an olive enamel dial and yellow-gold accents with a two-tone ceramic bezel, white lacquer hands, and a 39mm steel case. Its 200m water resistance, COSC-certified Soprod C125 movement, GMT function, and adjustable steel bracelet give it
Feature
Seven Years of Second Hour: The Australian Microbrand’s Journey of Growth and Innovation
Melbourne-based Second Hour was founded by Peter Sargison and his wife, Akira, after Peter turned a long career in technology into a passion for watchmaking. Inspired by his diving experiences, Peter designed the Gin Clear Diver, which launched on Kickstarter in 2020 and reached its funding goal in 33
video
The Essential G-Shock, Audemars Piguet's Pre-Owned Problem, And What's Happening At Zenith? - YouTube - aBlogtoWatch
Ariel and Rick discuss recent watch-industry developments, including the Hautlence Kubera, Bulgari’s Aluminium collection, and Audemars Piguet’s pre-owned platform. They question whether luxury brands’ resale initiatives make it more difficult for collectors to find good deals. They also consider Zenith’s identity and future, arguing that
comparisons
Citizen Promaster Diver vs. Bulova Caravelle Sea Hunter: Which Affordable Dive Watch Is Better?
The Citizen Promaster Diver BN0151 and Bulova Caravelle Sea Hunter are affordable 200-meter dive watches with distinct priorities. The Citizen pairs an ISO-certified design with an Eco-Drive solar quartz movement, strong legibility, bright lume, and a comfortable, relatively slim case. Its stock polyurethane strap and bezel grip
events
Baume & Mercier Marks Its Return to New York City with a New Watch Collection
Baume & Mercier marked its first New York City event in a decade with a celebration of its latest releases, including an ice-blue 39mm Clifton and a perpetual calendar limited to 20 pieces that nearly sold out upon release. Guests also viewed pieces from the Riviera, Hampton, Joia, and
New Watches
Archi Works and Amsterdam Vintage Watches Unveil the Limited-Edition Diplomat 1.87
Archi Works and Amsterdam Vintage Watches have created two limited editions of The Diplomat 1.87, each restricted to 100 pieces. The 35mm stainless-steel watch has a slim profile, vintage-inspired details, sapphire crystals, 50-meter water resistance, and a hand-wound La Joux-Perret D100 Soigné movement with
review
Review of Five German-Made Watch Straps from StrapKlub
StrapKlub is a Berlin-based brand offering locally made watch straps, with ready-to-ship options in a range of materials, colors, and widths, plus custom work and straps for specific watch models. Prices generally range from €49 to €109, and the straps are also sold through authorized dealers. Five
News
Rexhep Rexhepi’s RRCHF Chronograph Flyback Wins the 2026 GPHG Aiguille d’Or
The Rexhep Rexhepi RRCHF Chronograph Flyback won the 2026 GPHG Aiguille d’Or, recognizing the independent watchmaker’s traditional Geneva craftsmanship and distinctive design. Its features include a compact case, blue-green Grand Feu enamel on the platinum edition, offset time display, sapphire sub-dials, and a carefully finished movement
video
5 "In-House" Swiss Movements That Are Actually Disguised $40 Sellita Calibers - YouTube - Chrono-Fi
The video examines whether luxury Swiss watch brands market mass-produced Sellita movements under proprietary “in-house” names. It highlights the role of industrial supply chains and bulk pricing in the watch industry. It also looks at how movements may be re-engineered and presented as exclusive, even in watches
video
The Man that Makes Beautiful Watches - YouTube - Peter Kotsa Photographer
Peter Kotsa visits master horologist Jochen Benzinger to explore a quiet, hands-on approach to watchmaking. Benzinger’s work showcases intricate techniques including engine turning, skeletonization, and hand-finishing. Using historical rose engines, Benzinger relies on human skill rather than modern automation. The visit offers an intimate view of a
New Watches
Jack Mason’s Strat-o-Timer GMT Triton Meteorite Offers a Fresh Take on Rolex-Inspired Style
Jack Mason’s Strat-o-timer GMT Triton Meteorite is a limited edition of 200 pieces that pairs a red-and-blue ceramic bezel with a genuine Muonionalusta meteorite dial treated in icy blue. Its 40mm stainless steel case offers 200 meters of water resistance, a sapphire crystal and exhibition
video
Saquon Barkley's New Watch, Collaborations, and What’s Next for H. Moser & Cie. - YouTube - The 1916 Company
Tim speaks with H. Moser & Cie co-owner Bertrand Meylan about the Saquon Barkley edition of the Pioneer Cylindrical Tourbillon and how the collaboration came together. They also discuss the brand’s earlier partnership with Reebok Pump. The conversation turns to H. Moser & Cie’s newly released Heritage
New Watches
Horologically Unique HU-02 Brings Robert Cart’s Wandering Jump-Hour Chronoscope to the Wrist
The Horologically Unique HU-02 brings Robert Cart’s 1920s Chronoscope display to a wristwatch, adapting its wandering minutes and jumping-hour mechanism for a more accessible format. Inspired by Cart’s pocket watches for Breguet, it pairs the Art Deco design with a 38mm Disco Volante-style case, concealed
review
Peacock’s Refined Black Hole Central Tourbillon Watch With Curved Guilloché Dial
The Peacock Black Hole Curved Guilloché Central Tourbillon PBG0203.01 is a refined third-generation update with a redesigned grade 5 titanium case, box-style sapphire crystal, curved heat-blued guilloché dial, and disc-based hour and minute display. Its central flying tourbillon is powered by the PAX9611A movement, which
review
Hands-On with the Bold Favre Leuba Chief Skeleton Watch
The Favre Leuba Chief Skeleton is the brand’s first skeletonized watch, combining a 1970s-inspired cushion-shaped case with contemporary colors and an openworked automatic movement. It comes in seven variations, including steel and black DLC-treated cases, and the featured model pairs a steel case with a gold-
New Watches
CWC Navy Eighty CD-1 Dive Watch Review
The CWC Navy Eighty CD-1 is a modern reinterpretation of the brand’s classic military‑spec dive watch, drawing inspiration from early models supplied to the British Ministry of Defence. It features a 41 mm stainless‑steel case with a shrouded crown, applied luminous markers, and a ceramic bezel,
New Watches
Klokers KLOK03 Disc Watch Goes Automatic
Klokers introduces the KLOK03 Automatic, the brand’s first mechanical watch that retains its distinctive disc‑based time display while adding a traditional automatic movement. The three stacked discs show hours, minutes and seconds in a vertical line, turning clockwise and offering a depth‑enhanced visual compared to earlier flat,
New Watches
Praesidus Montar Ranger: Introducing the Ana‑Digi and GMT Models
Praesidus introduces the Montar Ranger collection, featuring two new models—the Ana‑Digi and the GMT—designed for outdoor enthusiasts. Both watches share a rugged aesthetic, 100 m water resistance, and a retail price of $275, with each colorway limited to 50 pieces. The Ana‑Digi combines a rotating compass
comparisons
Affordable GMT Watch Showdown: Seiko 5 GMT vs Vaer G2 Meridian
The comparison examines two affordable GMT watches, the Seiko 5 GMT with an automatic 4R34 movement and the Vaer G2 Meridian GMT powered by a Swiss quartz Ronda 515.24H. The Seiko offers a familiar SKX‑inspired design, a sunray dial, a Hardlex crystal, and a 100‑meter water resistance,
auctions
André Beyner and Maurice Grimm Prototype, Yema Yachtingraf Regatta, Omega Seamaster Recife, and Tropical Rolex Daytona
The piece explores several notable watches featured in an upcoming auction, beginning with a rare André Beyner and Maurice Grimm prototype that exemplifies ultra‑thin tourbillon engineering and bridges high‑end horology with more accessible designs. It highlights the prototype’s historical significance, its connection to earlier innovations such as
auctions
Vintage Bulova, Zenith LeGant Chronograph, and Unusual Seiko 5 Watches
The e‑bay finds roundup showcases a curated selection of vintage watches currently listed for auction, highlighting standout pieces from notable brands. The first feature is a 1964 Bulova with a 33 mm steel case, silver dial, Arabic numerals, and a 17‑jewel automatic movement, paired with a period‑correct
video
What Was the BEST Era for Luxury Watches? | Podcast Ep. 19 - YouTube - Burdeens Jewelry
The podcast episode explores the debate over the greatest era in luxury watchmaking, contrasting the disruptive design innovations of the 1970s with the technical breakthroughs of the 2000s. The 1970s discussion highlights how the quartz crisis forced traditional Swiss brands to experiment, producing iconic pieces such as the Audemars Piguet
auctions
Top Picks from the Watches for ELA Charity Auction
The charity auction organized by Watches for ELA will take place on Monday, November 9, 2026 in Geneva as part of Christie’s Rare Watches sale, featuring 21 unique lots from various brands and independent watchmakers. Proceeds support the European Leukodystrophy Association, which funds medical research and assistance for patients
New Watches
Andersen Geneve Communication 45 Supersonic London Edition
Andersen Geneve has partnered with watch enthusiast Justin Hast to create the Communication 45 Supersonic London edition, a limited‑edition world‑timer that honors the Concorde’s historic transatlantic flights. The 38 mm platinum case, crafted by master case‑maker Marco Poluzzi, features a cloisonné enamel dial depicting the Concorde
New Watches
Trafford Violet Crown Watch Captures Austin Sunsets
The Trafford Violet Crown is a limited‑edition reinterpretation of the Daytripper watch, inspired by the vivid sunsets that give Austin the nickname “City of the Violet Crown.” Its dial features a seamless blue‑to‑pink gradient with a double‑brushed finish, luminous chapter ring, and polished Arabic numerals, while
Feature
Staff Picks: GPHG 2026 Finalists – Part II
The piece highlights Watchonista’s curated selections among the 84 finalists for the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève 2026, showcasing standout timepieces across fourteen categories. It features personal favorites from various staff members, each explaining why a particular watch—ranging from Audemars Piguet’s 150 Heritage with its complex
Feature
Top 5 Watches Launched in October 2026
The list highlights the most notable watch releases of October 2026, showcasing a mix of limited editions, technical innovations, and homages to historic designs. Leading the selection is Sinn’s 140 A S Anniversary, a 300‑piece chronograph celebrating the brand’s space‑flight heritage with a black DLC‑coated
New Watches
Briston Launches New Clubmaster Legend Compressor Collection in Steel and Acetate
The Briston Clubmaster Legend Compressor Collection introduces a versatile dive watch line that blends vintage-inspired design with modern functionality. Available in polished steel or tortoiseshell acetate cases, the 42 mm cushion‑shaped models feature black or navy‑blue semi‑gloss dials, applied steel indexes with green Super‑LumiNova inserts,
video
The New Breguet Marine Collection: A Closer Look - YouTube - Fratello
The new Breguet Marine Collection is introduced as a striking addition to luxury watchmaking, emphasizing innovative design and meticulous craftsmanship. Highlighting the collection’s modern aesthetics and technical advancements, the launch showcases Breguet’s commitment to blending tradition with contemporary appeal, positioning the Marine line as a standout offering for
video
Wind Vintage on Patek, Vacheron, and What's Overpriced | Unpolished Pod (Eric Wind & Charlie Dunne) - YouTube
The episode explores the luxury watch market, focusing on why brands such as Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin are seen as overpriced and how market dynamics influence collector behavior. Eric Wind and Charlie Dunne discuss their expertise, the evolution of the passion‑to‑value scale, and the shift toward speculative
video
I Found the Craziest 5-Watch Collection in New York - YouTube - Scott Adam Lancaster
The video showcases an extraordinary collection of five remarkable watches assembled in New York, highlighting the rarity and craftsmanship of each timepiece. Viewers are taken on a close‑up tour that emphasizes the unique designs, intricate mechanisms, and the overall visual impact of the collection. Throughout the footage, Sean’s
video
Inside The Vault Of The World’s Most Exclusive Watch Dealer - YouTube
EsperLuxe serves as a premier destination for some of the rarest contemporary watches, representing brands such as Akrivia, De Bethune, Romain Gauthier, URWERK, Armin Strom, Moritz Grossmann, Kudoke, and many others. The boutique not only showcases these exceptional timepieces but also curates a selection of pre‑owned models, offering collectors
video
These Watch Brands Are Insanely Underpriced - YouTube - A Podcast About Watches
The episode explores several watch brands that offer exceptional value, highlighting models that combine quality craftsmanship with affordable pricing. Listeners learn which manufacturers stand out for their reliability, design, and cost-effectiveness, making it easier to choose a timepiece that fits both style and budget. Throughout the conversation, Andrew and