Newsletter
Issue #283 | Buying Time - November 4, 2026
From Casio’s factory floor to Patek’s grand complications, today’s watches ask what makes craftsmanship, utility, and heritage worth paying for.
Feature
TAG Heuer Aquaracer: From Early Dive Watches to Modern Innovation
TAG Heuer’s dive-watch story began in 1978 with the ref. 844, developed to meet demand for sturdy, affordable underwater watches. The 1000, 2000, and 3000 Series followed, with the 1000 emphasizing professional diving specifications, the 2000 broadening the collection’s styles and sizes, and the 3000 offering a
Feature
Waltham Watches: From American Mass Production to Modern Swiss Revival
Waltham helped pioneer American mass-produced watchmaking, using standardized, interchangeable parts to make accurate timepieces more affordable. Founded in 1850 as the Boston Watch Company, it became a major supplier of dependable railroad watches and produced about 40 million watches before U.S. manufacturing ended in 1957. Among its notable
Feature
Omega Discontinues the Speedmaster X-33: What’s Next for This Space-Age Watch?
Omega has removed the Speedmaster X-33 Marstimer and Skywalker from its public catalog, leaving no digital Speedmaster available to consumers. The X-33 has served astronauts and cosmonauts since its introduction in 1998, and NASA continues to use the Gen 2, which remains in production for space agencies. The
New Watches
Louis Vuitton Tambour Convergence Returns in Mirror-Polished Steel
The Louis Vuitton Tambour Convergence Mirror Steel brings the elegant, compact guichet watch into a hardened stainless steel case. Its 37mm case is hand-polished to a mirror finish, measures 8mm thick, and has a surface hardness of 1,130 Vickers. The arched window displays hours and minutes on rhodium-
New Watches
Depancel Autosport 2 Tours d’Horloge: A Watch for 24-Hour Racing
Depancel’s limited-edition Autosport “2 Tours d’Horloge” commemorates a 24-hour endurance race for historic cars at Circuit Paul Ricard. Limited to 100 pieces, it features a 39mm stainless steel case, a black-and-white dial with yellow accents, and a 3 o’clock subdial that tracks race
New Watches
Jacques Bianchi’s New Combat Diving Watch Is Lightweight and Built for Practicality
The Jacques Bianchi Marseille JB300 Professional is a limited-edition combat-diving watch developed with former US Navy diver Brock Stevens and informed by feedback from military divers. Its 41.5mm forged-carbon case has a Grade 5 titanium inner core, a black DLC-coated titanium bezel, reinforced fixed lugs,
New Watches
The Oris Big Crown Pointer Date Gets an Oxblood Red Dial
Oris has expanded its contemporary Big Crown Pointer Date line with a permanent oxblood red dial model. The 40mm stainless steel watch features a smooth bezel, oversized fluted crown, domed sapphire crystal, 50m water resistance, and a steel H-link bracelet. White Arabic numerals and luminous hands contrast with the
review
Hands-On Review: Strehler Säntis Worldtimer Watch
The Strehler Säntis Worldtimer is an independently developed and manufactured Swiss watch with a 40mm stainless-steel case, a laser-engraved, anodised titanium dial, and an automatic SA-30W movement. Its Cottier-style world-time display pairs a rotating 24-hour ring with a ring of 24 city names, allowing
events
Inside the 2026 NYC Windup Watch Fair: Big Crowds, New Releases, and Lessons for Next Year
The 2026 New York Windup Watch Fair marked a new stage of growth for the event, which began in 2015 as a small SoHo gathering and has expanded into a national series welcoming thousands of visitors. More than 40 watches debuted at the Fair, which drew over 100 registered press
review
Review: The anOrdain Model 1 Porcelain Watch
The anOrdain Model 1 Porcelain offers a white ceramic dial as a higher-capacity alternative to the brand’s highly sought-after enamel watches, whose waitlist reportedly extends to 2030. A single craftsperson can produce 30 to 40 porcelain dials per month, compared with about 50 enamel dials from a
video
$130K Patek Aquanaut vs. $80K Vacheron Tourbillon - YouTube - Burdeens Jewelry
The video compares two high-end luxury sports watches: the Patek Philippe Aquanaut Chronograph Ref. 5968G in 18k white gold and the stainless steel Vacheron Constantin Overseas Tourbillon. It frames the comparison around the tension between market hype and horological substance. The discussion considers what collectors mean by “chasing hype”
video
The "Fake" Reason Luxury Watches Are Getting Cheaper - YouTube - Adrian Barker
Luxury watchmakers are facing a cooling market and waning customer interest following years of steep price increases. Adrian Barker examines how brands including Panerai, Omega, and Zenith are responding by changing product specifications and pricing. These adjustments aim to make watches more appealing to customers and help brands regain interest
events
Who Spent $250 Best at Windup New York?
Windup Watch Fair, held at Center415 on Fifth Avenue during New York Watch Week, brings together more than 160 watch, tech, outdoor gear, and travel brands. Its free admission makes it accessible to collectors and newcomers, and the event has grown into the world’s largest public watch fair. At
podcast
Navigating Japan’s Unique Watch Market
The episode explores the unique opportunities and challenges of buying watches in Japan, where the vast selection includes Japan-only models and limited editions that attract strong local interest. The hosts share experiences shopping both in person and through online marketplaces, and discuss Japan’s importance to brands such as
comparisons
Seiko 5 Sports vs. Timex Deepwater: Which Affordable Dive Watch Is Better?
The Seiko 5 Sports SRPD51 and Timex Deepwater Meridian 200 offer different takes on affordable dive-inspired watches. The Seiko pairs an SKX-inspired design, comfortable proportions, and a hand-windable 4R36 automatic movement with a 100-meter water-resistance rating, Hardlex crystal, and a bracelet that may benefit from
New Watches
Richard Mille RM HJ-02: A Dazzling Fusion of Gemstones and Tourbillon Engineering
The Richard Mille RM HJ-02 is the second chapter in the brand’s high-jewelry collection, designed by Cécile Guenat. Limited to 12 unique pieces across pink, violet, blue, and green color families, each watch pairs a gem-set 18K white-gold tonneau case with a skeletonized in-house
News
Bertrand Delvert Appointed CEO of Swatch Group USA
Bertrand Delvert has been appointed CEO of Swatch Group USA after 26 years with the company. He moved from Paris, where he had served as managing director of Swatch Group France since 2019, and previously spent 18 years at Tissot, including as global senior vice-president of marketing and communications.
video
6 Watches That Are Popular for a Reason - YouTube - Britt Pearce
Six watches that collectors often return to include the Casio G-Shock Square, OMEGA Seamaster Diver 300M, Tudor Black Bay (including the 58 and 54), OMEGA Speedmaster Professional, Cartier Tank and Rolex Explorer. Their lasting appeal comes from a mix of practicality, distinctive character, everyday versatility and enduring design. A
video
Watch Brands You’re Wrong About - YouTube - A Podcast About Watches
The hosts discuss how reputations can obscure the histories and achievements of several watch brands. Longines was once a pioneer in precision timing and chronographs; Universal Genève produced a broad range of designs beyond the Polerouter; and Movado was a significant movement maker that introduced curved-case watches. Hublot, despite
video
New Hublot Classic Fusion Tributo | Hands On Review - YouTube - Time+Tide Watches
The Hublot Classic Fusion Tributo watches revisit the brand’s original 1980 MDM design, pairing a gold case with a black rubber strap, a pared-back black dial, a date display, and twelve domed bezel screws. Rather than merely reinterpreting the original, the Tributo models preserve its defining features while
New Watches
PS Horology Tsuba 1720: An Integrated Bracelet Watch Inspired by George Graham’s 18th-Century Timepiece
The PS Horology Tsuba 1720 is an integrated-bracelet watch inspired by an 18th-century pocket watch made by English watchmaker George Graham in 1719–20. Designed by Peter Speake and Creative Director Farhana Safa, it reinterprets the original’s gold dial, double chapter rings, Roman numerals, and beetle-and-
review
Hands-On Review: Louis Vuitton Monterey Ceramic Watches in Black and Green
The Louis Vuitton Monterey Ceramic reimagines the brand’s 1988 LVII watch as a simple, approachable luxury timepiece. Its 37mm lugless case comes in polished black or deep green ceramic, paired with a white dial on the black model and a green dial with yellow hands on the green model.
Newsletter
Issue #282 | Buying Time - November 3, 2026
Big names command the market, quieter watches challenge the hierarchy, and a Richard Mille split-seconds chronograph puts engineering and value on the auction block.
News
Kimi Antonelli Wore an IWC Pilot’s Watch as He Became F1’s Youngest-Ever Champion
Kimi Antonelli became the youngest Formula 1 World Champion at 20 years and 68 days after finishing third at the 2026 Mexico City Grand Prix. His ten wins that season secured the title, surpassing Sebastian Vettel’s record, and made him the first Italian champion in more than 70 years.
News
Why Rolex, Patek Philippe, and Audemars Piguet Lead the $26.6 Billion Pre-Owned Watch Market
The secondary watch market is estimated at 22 billion Swiss francs, or about $26.6 billion, and is growing 8 to 11 percent annually, driven in part by digital sales. Rolex, Audemars Piguet, and Patek Philippe account for 61 to 62 percent of its value, compared with 45.5 percent
Feature
Modern Escapement Innovations: Classic Designs Reimagined for Wristwatches
Modern escapement development spans industrial advances and independent watchmakers’ reinterpretations of classical designs. Natural escapements by Laurent Ferrier, Kari Voutilainen, and F. P. Journe apply distinct materials and mechanisms, with Voutilainen emphasizing reliable traditional geometry and Journe adding an impulse-on-demand feature that can support the balance at low
auctions
A Preview of the 2026 Geneva Fall Watch Auctions: Christie’s and Antiquorum
A preview of Christie’s and Antiquorum’s Geneva fall watch auctions highlights notable watches, estimates, and collecting opportunities. Christie’s features high-profile F.P. Journe and Patek Philippe pieces, alongside independent watchmakers such as Grönefeld, Voutilainen, Vianney Halter, and Sylvain Pinaud. The commentary notes uncertain market conditions and
comparisons
Omega Speedmaster vs. TAG Heuer Monaco: Comparing Two Iconic Chronographs
The Omega Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch 3861 and TAG Heuer Monaco are historically significant chronographs with contrasting designs and ownership experiences. The Speedmaster pairs a legible black dial and comfortable steel bracelet with a manually wound, METAS-certified movement that has proven accurate and reliable. The Monaco offers a distinctive square
events
Phillips to Showcase 34 Finalists in Vacheron Constantin’s First Watchmaking Concours of Elegance
Vacheron Constantin and Phillips will present 34 finalists in the inaugural Concours d’Élégance Horlogère at the Hôtel Président Wilson in Geneva from November 4 to 8, ahead of the November 10 awards. Selected from 95 shortlisted entries, the watches span seven categories and were made between 1755 and 1999.
review
Why the Citizen Eco-Drive Photon Surprised Me in the Best Way
The Citizen Eco-Drive Photon BJ6569-59X surprises with its comfortable, lightweight Super Titanium case and bracelet, refined dark gray and Amber Gold finishes, and distinctive layered dial inspired by the double-slit experiment. Despite its visual complexity, the dial remains easy to read, with luminous hands and markers and
review
LOTH Watch 1 Review: Independent Watchmaker Tristan Ho’s Debut Creation
The LOTH Watch 1 is the first commercially available watch from Singaporean independent watchmaker Tristan Ho, who founded LOTH in 2024 after teaching himself the craft while working in biomedical research. Limited to 12 pieces and built around a Unitas 6498 base movement, the stainless-steel watch features a hand-
review
Hands-On With Arnold & Son’s DSTB Stop-Seconds Watch
Arnold & Son’s DSTB Stop-Seconds updates the brand’s deadbeat-seconds watch with hacking seconds and a concave white-opal time subdial. Available in Cliff Grey red gold and Kingsand platinum, each limited to 18 pieces, the models feature an asymmetrical dial that showcases the jumping-seconds mechanism
New Watches
Citizen ATTESA – Purple Aurora Power
The Citizen ATTESA Power of Purple Aurora is a limited‑edition watch released to celebrate the 50th anniversary of Eco‑Drive technology. Inspired by the rare violet hues of the aurora borealis, the timepiece features a predominantly black dial punctuated by sub‑dials that shift between purple, blue and pink
comparisons
Microbrand Watches: November 2026 Edition
The collection showcases a range of micro‑brand watches released for November 2026, each emphasizing distinctive design concepts and limited production runs. Temporal Works presents the Series A Romanesque with laser‑cut Roman numerals on a two‑tone dial, while Diatom’s Inner Worlds Mercury draws its colour palette from
New Watches
Audemars Piguet Launches Supersonnerie Trio and Code 11.59 Stone Dial Duo
Audemars Piguet’s 2026 winter launch introduces five high‑end pieces split between the Supersonnerie and Stone Dial collections, featuring both the iconic Royal Oak and the contemporary Code 11.59 lines. The Supersonnerie models include a 42 mm Royal Oak Minute Repeater in titanium with a green sunray dial
New Watches
New Kiwame Tokyo Kubo Momiji in Autumnal Red
The new Kiwame Tokyo Kubo Momiji watch introduces a striking deep‑red lacquer dial inspired by the traditional Koimomiji colour, featuring a recessed small‑seconds sub‑dial at 4:30 adorned with a raised maple‑leaf motif. Housed in a 37 mm stainless‑steel case with a vertically brushed flat
News
Christopher Ward's Annual Sales Target $100 Million
Christopher Ward is operating as a £75 million (approximately $100 million) turnover business and aims to reach £100 million within two years, with plans to target £250 million thereafter. Recent accounts show a near‑50 % sales increase for the year ending March 2025, and the company forecasts $100 million in
auctions
King James I Pocket Watch Heads Bonhams Auction
A unique silver and gilt pocket watch made for King James I of England and VI of Scotland in 1613 by royal clockmaker David Ramsam is set to lead Bonhams’ Historical and Extraordinary Watches auction on 3 December, with an estimated hammer price of £250,000‑350,000 (approximately $333,
editorial
Breguet Bounce Overview
Breguet’s recent auction success highlights the brand’s resurgence as a coveted collector’s item, with the Classique Perpetual Calendar fetching €85,800—far above its pre‑sale estimate. This surge reflects renewed interest in Breguet’s neo‑vintage pieces, a legacy stemming from its historic innovations and the
New Watches
H. Moser & Cie. Introduces Two New Heritage Models, Including a Chronograph
The new Heritage collection from H. Moser & Cie. introduces two limited‑edition watches that blend vintage-inspired design with modern craftsmanship. The Heritage Chronograph White Fumé features a 42 mm stainless‑steel case, a white fumé dial with blue numerals and a double‑tachymeter scale, and is powered by
New Watches
IFL Watches and Laphont Bloc Limited Editions Reach for the Sky
The limited‑edition collaboration between IFL Watches and Laphont Bloc introduces three hand‑painted dials—Skybound, Cloudling, and Bouquella—each inspired by childhood objects that float freely, such as kites, balloons, and dandelions. The watches feature a stainless‑steel case measuring 27.5 mm × 35 mm × 7.6 mm, sapphire
New Watches
The Sleeker, More Compact, and More Accessible Minase Mastercraft J3 Collection
Minase introduces the Mastercraft J3, a compact 37 mm watch that blends minimalist design with high‑quality craftsmanship. The stainless‑steel case features brushed surfaces and Sallaz‑polished bevels, while the sand‑textured dial is available in white, beige, or black with blue luminescent indices and hands. Powered by a
Feature
How the Ebel Sport Chronograph ‘El Primero’ Unexpectedly Leads the Investor Trend
The Ebel Sport Chronograph ‘El Primero’ combines a historic Zenith 3019PHC automatic chronograph movement with distinctive 1980s design cues, including a slim “Wave” bracelet and two‑tone case that blend stainless steel and 18K gold. Its 38 mm case, matte white dial with Roman numerals, and gold‑accented sub‑dials
review
Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical Review – Modern Warfare 4 Tribute
The Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical 38 mm COD blends the brand’s classic field‑watch heritage with visual cues from Call of Duty: Modern Warfare 4, resulting in a dark, tactical‑styled piece. A 38 mm sandblasted stainless‑steel case with black PVD coating houses a hand‑wound H‑50
podcast
Scottish Watches Podcast #828 – Stories from the Watch World with Pamela Cloutier
The episode features an in‑depth conversation with Pamela Cloutier, whose extensive career spans prestigious brands such as Christian Dior, Universal Genève, Patek Philippe, De Grisogono, and Ralph Lauren. She discusses her early experiences, leadership roles overseeing the Americas and Asian markets at Patek Philippe, and her later work with
Newsletter
Issue #281 | Buying Time - November 2, 2026
Patek’s record sales, independent ambition, affordable alternatives, and a Vacheron tourbillon put the meaning of watch value under the loupe.