News
Geneva’s November 2026 watch auctions at Phillips, Christie’s, and Sotheby’s generated a combined $203 million, setting records for total sales and several individual lots. Phillips led with $112.3 million, followed by Christie’s at $58.7 million, while Sotheby’s contributed more than $32 million. F.
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Independent watchmaking has grown into a celebrated field, shaped by generations of innovators who combined technical skill, personal vision and entrepreneurial independence. The AHCI, founded in 1985 by Vincent Calabrese and Svend Andersen, helped build a community for these makers. Their pioneering work spans inventive movements and complications, bold designs,
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Konstantin Chaykin’s SC02C is a limited-edition chronograph shaped by a Roscosmos research program that began in 2018. Watches developed through the program accompanied four spacewalks, including a six-hour outing in May 2026. Designed as a dependable backup when radio communication is interrupted, the SC02C features a clear
Geneva’s record auction, independent watchmaking’s creative pulse, and a Vacheron that puts its calendar on display.
From Geneva’s biggest winners to the watch you might design yourself, today’s BuyingTime explores what makes a timepiece matter.
Independent watchmaking builds its future, Subdial accelerates, and a freshly serviced Lange brings substance to the auction block.
Rolex buyers push back, watchmakers push boundaries, and a rose-gold Patek Cubitus tests what collectors are willing to pay.
From Casio’s factory floor to Patek’s grand complications, today’s watches ask what makes craftsmanship, utility, and heritage worth paying for.
Big names command the market, quieter watches challenge the hierarchy, and a Richard Mille split-seconds chronograph puts engineering and value on the auction block.
New Watches
Yema’s Senans Grande Lune CMM.22 Limited Edition is the brand’s first moonphase watch and the opening model in a new collection. Its contemporary 38.5mm stainless steel case pairs stepped, alternating brushed and polished surfaces with a black guilloché dial and an oversized luminous moonphase display. Blue
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Jaeger-LeCoultre’s eighth “The Collectibles” capsule collection explores the brand’s ties to the American market ahead of the United States’ 250th anniversary. Its watches reflect how tariffs, local tastes, and demand for novelty shaped distinctive designs, including American-made cases, English calendar discs, and early sport watches. Product
events
Seiko marked its 145th anniversary with an event at Watersedge in Sydney’s The Rocks, bringing together about 150 collectors, retail partners, media and guests. Attendees explored anniversary releases alongside Prospex, King Seiko and Presage, with interactive experiences including racing simulators, Japanese calligraphy and cocktail bars. The collection’s gold,
review
The Venezianico Nereide Opale Blu pairs a 42mm steel diver’s case with a distinctive blue-and-green lab-grown opal dial made by Kyocera. Limited to 600 pieces, it has a 200-meter water-resistance rating, a tungsten bezel insert, a 120-click unidirectional bezel, luminous markers and hands,
comparisons
The $6,300 Omega Seamaster Diver 300M and the $270 Timex Deepwater Meridian 200 share a modern dive-watch aesthetic but take different approaches. Omega offers a METAS-certified automatic movement, a green ceramic dial and bezel, refined case finishing, and 300-meter water resistance. Timex pairs a dependable quartz
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Time-only watches strip away complications to focus on the essentials, letting design, proportions, and craftsmanship take center stage. Their simplicity also makes them versatile, from refined dress watches to robust everyday models. The selection ranges from affordable options such as the Timex Marlin to high-end pieces including the
New Watches
Albishorn’s Voisin Aerosport expands the independent brand’s “imaginary vintage” collection with a dress chronometer inspired by Gabriel Voisin’s aviation and automotive designs, particularly the 1930s C28 Aérosport. Its 38mm stainless steel case combines fluid, aerodynamic lines with stepped surfaces and contrasting finishes. A three-layer sector dial
New Watches
Vacheron Constantin has updated the Fiftysix Self-Winding and Complete Calendar with 40mm stainless steel cases, more varied brushed and polished finishes, two-tone grey sector dials, box-shaped sapphire crystals and grey nubuck straps. The Self-Winding has a light grey opaline centre that darkens toward the chapter ring,
New Watches
MB&F has introduced three limited editions of the LM101 featuring cloisonné enamel dials by Gabriel Colliard. Each platinum watch depicts a colourful animal scene—monkeys in blue, macaws in red, or a crocodile in green—composed around the LM101’s suspended balance wheel and sculptural movement. To make
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Omega’s Speedmaster lineup had a relatively quiet 2026, with new releases including the stainless-steel and 18K Moonshine gold “Reverse Panda” Moonwatch, a green-dial gold model inspired by Rory McIlroy, and seven updated Speedmaster 38 variations. The collection includes 92 of Omega’s 535 catalog references, following a
Newsletter
Geneva’s record auction, independent watchmaking’s creative pulse, and a Vacheron that puts its calendar on display.
review
The Orient Star Skeleton 75th Anniversary Flagship Model RE-BR0001N celebrates 75 years of the brand and 35 years of its skeleton watches. Limited to 130 pieces, it introduces the F9B82 movement in a 40 mm stainless steel case with zaratsu polishing, an open-worked dial plate, and a distinctive
events
WatchPro’s Women in Watches event, held in Miami on November 6 in association with headline sponsor WOLF, brought together industry leaders, brand representatives and watch experts for discussion and networking. The first panel explored career progression, leadership, recruitment and pathways into the watch industry, highlighting transferable skills and opportunities
events
Time to Drive Miami Car & Watch Fest debuted at Mana Wynwood on November 7–8, 2026, bringing around 25 watch brands, retailers, dealers, and collectors together with car enthusiasts. A VVIP lounge, cigar and drink service, and an Assouline Porsche book complemented the show floor, where the strong turnout
video
Tony Traina, a former Hodinkee editor and creator of the Unpolished newsletter, shares the story behind his personal watch collection. The lineup is largely vintage and deliberately eclectic, spanning accessible brands such as Swatch and Seiko alongside notable pieces from Rolex, Jaeger-LeCoultre, and Cartier. The collection also includes a
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Four watches showcase distinctive engraved or sculptural cases that turn a timepiece’s exterior into a storytelling element. Ralph Lauren’s American Western Cushion pairs aged, hand-engraved sterling silver with Southwestern motifs and, in one version, a turquoise dial; Grand Seiko’s limited-edition SBGZ011 extends a waterfall-inspired
comparisons
The TAG Heuer Monaco and Carrera Glassbox are celebrated racing chronographs with capable automatic movements, 80-hour power reserves, satisfying pushers, and 100-meter water resistance. The Monaco stands out with its square 39mm titanium case, blue dial, and motorsport heritage, but its broad, flat shape proved difficult to wear
review
The Rado DiaStar Original Skeleton watches reinterpret the 1962 UFO-inspired design in two gold-colored versions: yellow gold tone (R12166159) and rose gold hue (R12159309). Both feature a 38 × 45mm stainless steel case, a faceted sapphire crystal, and a hard Ceramos bezel made from ceramic and metal. Their openworked
review
The Breitling Superocean Automatic 42 makes a strong impression with its vintage-inspired design, oversized geometric markers, excellent legibility, and distinctive lollipop seconds hand. Its 42mm stainless steel case wears comfortably, while polished and brushed finishes, a clear coated sapphire crystal, and a precise, grippy ceramic bezel add to its
New Watches
The Ming 51.01 Halo is a compact dress watch with a 37mm crystallised grade 5 titanium case, finished in warm 5N rose gold tones. Its 8mm-thick case frames a minimalist black lacquer dial with rose gold-coloured hands and crystal-engraved indices, while the design omits luminescence for
New Watches
Awake has expanded its Sơn Mài Silver Leaf collection with three permanent dial colors—Java Green, Gentian Blue, and Indian Red—and Purple Viola, limited to 200 pieces. Each Vignette dial is made in Hanoi using silver leaf and roughly twelve layers of lacquer, applied and polished over more than
New Watches
Bell & Ross introduces the BR-03 Green Radar Ceramic, a 41mm black ceramic watch that reimagines the brand’s radar-inspired design first presented in 2010. Its green-tinted display uses three rotating discs, with aircraft silhouettes indicating the hours, minutes, and seconds: a Falcon, a Rafale, and a
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Hodinkee hosted a Happy Hour at Grotta Local during New York Watch Week, bringing together guests for craft beer, pizza, conversation, and watch spotting. The gathering offered attendees a chance to reconnect alongside events including the FHH Watch Summit, WatchTime, Windup, and Indies.NYC. Watches on display ranged from a
News
Phillips’ Geneva Watch Auction achieved a record $112.3 million from 217 lots, with an average price of $517,406. Yet New York’s average selling price surpassed Geneva’s at Phillips’ spring auctions, reaching $479,792 compared with $430,036. US import duties on Swiss watches, combined with a
News
Phillips’ Geneva Watch Auction XXIV achieved a record CHF 92 million ($112.3 million), with all 217 lots sold, an average price above $500,000, and 24 world auction records. The total more than doubled the comparable May 2025 sale, as 17 lots exceeded CHF 1 million despite rare-watch
video
The Glashütte Original Vintage Seventies collection introduces three stainless-steel watches with slimmer, more compact proportions: a 39mm case measuring 9.6mm thick, a 43.7mm lug-to-lug span, and 100-metre water resistance. Their embossed hexagrid dials draw inspiration from 1970s hi-fi systems, tweed-covered amplifiers, and
podcast
Nomadic Watches was founded in Belfast in 2021 by Peter McAuley, who combined his mechanical engineering and business experience to build a watch brand with a distinctly Irish identity. Its name honors the SS Nomadic, the Belfast-built tender ship associated with the Titanic, and the city’s shipbuilding heritage
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Luxury watch brands once benefited from charismatic leaders who took creative risks, shaped products, built teams, and gave their companies a clear direction. Today, many CEOs at established brands have little authority over product decisions, budgets, hiring, marketing, or staffing because owners and investors distribute power among stakeholders whose priorities
New Watches
The Garrick S8 is a compact, time-only skeleton watch developed by the British independent watchmaker for collectors seeking the character of the S3 in a smaller format. Its 39mm-wide, 8mm-thick case is made from 904L stainless steel or precious metal, with polished or frosted finishes and 100m
review
The Sinn EZM 19 is a mission timer designed for emergency command staff, developed with Hattingen Fire Department director Tomas Stanke. Its captive bidirectional bezel switches between a 35-minute briefing scale and a four-hour operations scale, helping wearers manage briefings, handovers, and shifts at a glance. Color-coded
video
Mike considers the price hikes and what you should consider when shopping for a watch.
Newsletter
From Geneva’s biggest winners to the watch you might design yourself, today’s BuyingTime explores what makes a timepiece matter.
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Historical tourbillon carriages were often built by specialist watchmakers whose names were omitted from finished watches, which carried the names of the firms that sold them. Records such as observatory reports, trade directories, costing sheets, obituaries, and occasional signatures reveal the work of Ernest Guinand, Auguste Grether, Albert Pellaton-Favre,
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A grail watch is a personal ideal shaped by an enthusiast’s exposure, knowledge, and changing interests. Early ambitions may center on iconic designs and prestigious brands, but deeper study can shift attention toward movement architecture, complications, finishing, independent makers, and distinctive approaches to watchmaking. The grail is therefore a
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Racing has long been closely tied to chronograph watchmaking, with these watches designed to time laps and stages. Six notable racing chronographs showcase that connection, including models linked to Formula 1 teams and historic road racing. The selection spans TAG Heuer’s Carrera Chronograph Sport, Seiko’s Prospex Speedtimer, Chopard’
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Citizen’s 2026 watch releases pair practical improvements with anniversary-driven experimentation. The lineup includes smaller cases, Eco-Drive solar movements, sapphire crystals, and capable sports models, from the $495 Tsuyosa Shore and Promaster Dive to the $1,295 Series 8. Standouts include the 39.5mm Promaster Land GMT, the
comparisons
The Rolex Submariner Date 116610 and Citizen Promaster BN0151-09L offer very different approaches to the dive watch. The Rolex stands out for its exceptional bracelet and Glidelock clasp, precise bezel, refined construction, sapphire crystal, and highly accurate automatic movement. The Citizen prioritizes practicality with an easy-to-read dial,
New Watches
Colombian brand Auret’s debut Mederi is a 40mm stainless steel watch with a distinctive 12-sided bezel, a guilloché dial with a gradient finish, and a Swiss Sellita SW260 automatic movement. Available in black, blue, and burgundy dial variants, it features a small-seconds display, sapphire crystals, 100 metres
video
Zach shanked Andrew in New York. Now it’s payback 😈. For the last 24 hours, Andrew was sitting on a secret: a brand-new Rolex Yacht-Master 42 in RLX titanium. Zach struck first with his Rolex Land-Dweller 36; now it's time for Andrew's Rolex
comparisons
The Sinn U50 and Oris Aquis Date are similarly priced dive watches with contrasting designs and strengths. The 41mm Sinn costs €2,660–€2,675, offers 500m water resistance, a slim 11.15mm case, and a 56-hour power reserve. Its advocates value its rugged, purpose-built character, comfort, technical
auctions
Breguet No. 2226 is a 47mm 18K gold hunter pocket watch sold in Paris in 1853 to a buyer recorded as “Capitaine Denny.” Its archive entry describes an enamel dial, small seconds, lever escapement, and compensated balance, while an engraved wheat-ear crest and the motto “æt mea messis erit”
Feature
Wave dials bring the sea’s shifting light and texture to a watch face, balancing depth and visual interest with clear readability. Their patterns may be stamped, engraved, or laser-cut, ranging from subtle ripples to bold, sculptural waves. The featured watches span accessible and luxury price points, from the
review
The H. Moser Pioneer Cylindrical Tourbillon Skeleton Aventurine Saquon Barkley Edition builds on the Spiced Aqua model, pairing a 42.8mm stainless steel case and 12 ATM water resistance with a skeletonized HMC 811 movement. Its one-minute flying tourbillon features a cylindrical hairspring, while the movement offers a 74-
video
Most watches are designed simply to tell time, but a rare few stand out as masterpieces of watchmaking. Their importance extends beyond their practical function. The selection considers seven watches from across watchmaking history, chosen for their craftsmanship and significance. No individual watches or further details are provided.
video
Four watch collectors—Justin Hast, Salim Hammad, Tim Green, and Jake Ross—have moved from critiquing watches to designing their own from scratch. Each worked with a designer at a different location to create and present an original watch. Four industry experts judge the designs, contributing 50% of the results.
video
The video explores seven common pitfalls in luxury watch collecting and offers guidance on avoiding them. Tim discusses how choices around gifting and payment can affect the experience. It also addresses social media and hating, encouraging collectors to avoid habits that sour the hobby. The goal is to help keep
