Newsletter
Issue #284 | Buying Time - November 5, 2026
Rolex buyers push back, watchmakers push boundaries, and a rose-gold Patek Cubitus tests what collectors are willing to pay.
News
Repeated reserve misses on popular references suggest growing resistance to prices that, until recently, buyers routinely accepted. One of Grailzee’s (grailzee.com) prolific Rolex sellers appears to be encountering something Buying Time rarely saw in his auctions before: persistent buyer resistance. The account Walo7o4h4 (1804), which Buying Time has
New Watches
The Orient Star Skeleton 75th Anniversary Flagship RE‑BR0001N celebrates the brand’s milestone with a limited edition of 130 pieces, featuring a 40 mm stainless‑steel case, 9.5 mm thickness, and a fully skeletonised hand‑wound calibre F9B82 with 20 jewels, a silicon escape wheel, and a power
New Watches
Open Bar Funeral’s Crashio v2 blends the eccentric, warped case of Cartier’s Crash with the utilitarian digital display of a Casio F‑91W, resulting in a $100 transparent‑resin watch that feels both playful and deliberately over‑designed. The watch retains the original’s quirky proportions, featuring an
Rolex buyers push back, watchmakers push boundaries, and a rose-gold Patek Cubitus tests what collectors are willing to pay.
From Casio’s factory floor to Patek’s grand complications, today’s watches ask what makes craftsmanship, utility, and heritage worth paying for.
Big names command the market, quieter watches challenge the hierarchy, and a Richard Mille split-seconds chronograph puts engineering and value on the auction block.
Patek’s record sales, independent ambition, affordable alternatives, and a Vacheron tourbillon put the meaning of watch value under the loupe.
Rolex puts a price on ownership, independents rethink the dial, and the auction market asks what originality is really worth.
Security concerns, changing retail relationships and extraordinary craftsmanship raise a simple question: how much freedom does your watch give you to enjoy it?
New Watches
The collaboration between G‑SHOCK and UNION brings a vibrant new edition of the iconic DW‑5600RGB watch, blending the rugged functionality of G‑SHOCK with UNION’s streetwear heritage rooted in SoHo. Inspired by the Pan‑African flag, the timepiece features a striking red and green color scheme over
events
Milan Watch Week 2026 turned the city into a vibrant hub for horology, attracting over 14,000 visitors from more than 50 countries and showcasing 57 brands across the historic Palazzo Mezzanotte. The event blended high‑profile launches such as Rolex’s Perpetual Padellone, Patek Philippe’s Watch Art Grand
events
The Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève returns on Saturday, November 7, 2026, for its 26th edition, featuring 84 nominated watches competing across 19 prize categories, including the prestigious Aiguille d’Or Grand Prix. The ceremony will be conducted entirely in English and streamed live from Geneva’s Bâtiment des
podcast
The episode features Charles Tian, founder and CEO of WatchCharts, and Hamza Masood, head of business partnerships, discussing the forces shaping secondary‑market watch prices. They examine which brands and models are gaining traction, why some are lagging, and whether the recent recovery in watch values is sustainable. The conversation
video
Brittany and Adrien Barker examine the recent reports of substantial job cuts and major infrastructure changes at Zenith, highlighting the brand’s proposed shift toward higher‑tier products. They explore how this strategic move aims to reposition Zenith within the luxury watch segment, addressing both the potential benefits and the
Feature
The guide presents a curated selection of watches priced at $300 or less, covering a range of styles from digital classics and rugged divers to vintage-inspired dress pieces and solar-powered field models. Each watch is evaluated on design, functionality, water resistance, movement type, and practical compromises such as
auctions
Christie’s will celebrate its 40th anniversary in Asia with the Iconic 40 Watches Evening Sale in Hong Kong on November 25, 2026. The auction showcases 40 vintage and contemporary timepieces, featuring more than half from Patek Philippe, alongside notable pieces by independent makers such as F.P. Journe, A.
New Watches
The Roger Dubuis Excalibur Lady of the Lake Hawthorn Edition is a 36 mm rose‑gold women’s watch that blends Arthurian legend with haute horology. Its case features a fluted bezel set with diamonds and a ring‑shaped crown, while the dial showcases a mother‑of‑pearl base adorned
Feature
Frederique Constant is experiencing a period of strong momentum, highlighted by a notable presence at Watches and Wonders 2026 and two GPHG Award nominations. Global Marketing & Communications Director Yasmina Pedrini reflects on her journey with the brand since joining in 2008, emphasizing the company’s enduring philosophy of making
review
The Chopard L.U.C 1963 Heritage Regulator is a limited‑edition regulator‑style watch that showcases a complex layout with five hands, a digital date window, a 24‑hour GMT sub‑dial, and an arched power‑reserve indicator. Crafted in 18K ethical white gold, the 40 mm case houses
video
The video explores the Trilobe Trente Deux “tonto” watch, highlighting its distinctive design and technical features. It describes the brand’s Parisian origins, the watch’s unconventional dial with rotating concentric rings, and detailed specifications such as a 39.5 mm case, 50 m water resistance, a movement that beats
video
The episode explores the evolution of the Rolex Day‑Date, beginning with its 1956 debut and highlighting its association with presidents and world leaders. It examines key design changes and cultural moments that have made the Day‑Date one of Rolex’s most recognizable luxury timepieces. Through detailed discussion, Joy
New Watches
Audemars Piguet has introduced two 38mm Code 11.59 Selfwinding models with natural stone dials: a yellow-gold version with gold obsidian and a pink-gold version with black onyx. The obsidian dial has a sunburst finish and golden reflections, while the mirror-polished onyx dial features 13 baguette-cut
review
The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Dual Time x Vianney Halter brings together Bulgari design director Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani and independent watchmaker Vianney Halter in a distinctive collaboration. Its 40.5mm case measures 9.70mm thick, with prominent bezels around three subdials that give the watch a steampunk character and strong wrist
review
The TAG Heuer Monaco Chronograph in Grade 5 titanium retains the iconic square case and matte blue dial with red accents while reducing the weight compared with the stainless steel version. Measuring 39mm wide, 47.7mm lug-to-lug, and 13.9mm thick, it houses the TH20-11 automatic column-
Newsletter
From Casio’s factory floor to Patek’s grand complications, today’s watches ask what makes craftsmanship, utility, and heritage worth paying for.
New Watches
The Formex Essence Ceramica Dark Matter Red Shift is a 41mm full-ceramic sports watch made from black zirconium oxide, including its case, bracelet, and clasp. Ceramic offers strong scratch resistance and low weight, while the watch’s proprietary case suspension system carries over from the Ceramica platform. Priced at
video
In episode 56 of the SJX Podcast, Anthony de Haas, A. Lange & Söhne’s longtime head of product development, discusses the ideas behind the brand’s watches, beginning with the Datograph Perpetual. Its platinum bracelet and discreet diamond indices take the familiar model in a new direction, reflecting Lange’
Feature
Yamagata Casio in Higashine, Japan, is the company’s only domestic watchmaking facility and its “mother factory,” overseeing production while most high-volume manufacturing takes place overseas. The factory makes watches labeled “Made in Japan,” including the screw-back GW5000U, and combines industrial processes such as movement production, injection molding,
Feature
TAG Heuer’s dive-watch story began in 1978 with the ref. 844, developed to meet demand for sturdy, affordable underwater watches. The 1000, 2000, and 3000 Series followed, with the 1000 emphasizing professional diving specifications, the 2000 broadening the collection’s styles and sizes, and the 3000 offering a
Feature
Waltham helped pioneer American mass-produced watchmaking, using standardized, interchangeable parts to make accurate timepieces more affordable. Founded in 1850 as the Boston Watch Company, it became a major supplier of dependable railroad watches and produced about 40 million watches before U.S. manufacturing ended in 1957. Among its notable
Feature
Omega has removed the Speedmaster X-33 Marstimer and Skywalker from its public catalog, leaving no digital Speedmaster available to consumers. The X-33 has served astronauts and cosmonauts since its introduction in 1998, and NASA continues to use the Gen 2, which remains in production for space agencies. The
New Watches
The Louis Vuitton Tambour Convergence Mirror Steel brings the elegant, compact guichet watch into a hardened stainless steel case. Its 37mm case is hand-polished to a mirror finish, measures 8mm thick, and has a surface hardness of 1,130 Vickers. The arched window displays hours and minutes on rhodium-
New Watches
Depancel’s limited-edition Autosport “2 Tours d’Horloge” commemorates a 24-hour endurance race for historic cars at Circuit Paul Ricard. Limited to 100 pieces, it features a 39mm stainless steel case, a black-and-white dial with yellow accents, and a 3 o’clock subdial that tracks race
New Watches
The Jacques Bianchi Marseille JB300 Professional is a limited-edition combat-diving watch developed with former US Navy diver Brock Stevens and informed by feedback from military divers. Its 41.5mm forged-carbon case has a Grade 5 titanium inner core, a black DLC-coated titanium bezel, reinforced fixed lugs,
New Watches
Oris has expanded its contemporary Big Crown Pointer Date line with a permanent oxblood red dial model. The 40mm stainless steel watch features a smooth bezel, oversized fluted crown, domed sapphire crystal, 50m water resistance, and a steel H-link bracelet. White Arabic numerals and luminous hands contrast with the
review
The Strehler Säntis Worldtimer is an independently developed and manufactured Swiss watch with a 40mm stainless-steel case, a laser-engraved, anodised titanium dial, and an automatic SA-30W movement. Its Cottier-style world-time display pairs a rotating 24-hour ring with a ring of 24 city names, allowing
events
The 2026 New York Windup Watch Fair marked a new stage of growth for the event, which began in 2015 as a small SoHo gathering and has expanded into a national series welcoming thousands of visitors. More than 40 watches debuted at the Fair, which drew over 100 registered press
review
The anOrdain Model 1 Porcelain offers a white ceramic dial as a higher-capacity alternative to the brand’s highly sought-after enamel watches, whose waitlist reportedly extends to 2030. A single craftsperson can produce 30 to 40 porcelain dials per month, compared with about 50 enamel dials from a
video
The video compares two high-end luxury sports watches: the Patek Philippe Aquanaut Chronograph Ref. 5968G in 18k white gold and the stainless steel Vacheron Constantin Overseas Tourbillon. It frames the comparison around the tension between market hype and horological substance. The discussion considers what collectors mean by “chasing hype”
video
Luxury watchmakers are facing a cooling market and waning customer interest following years of steep price increases. Adrian Barker examines how brands including Panerai, Omega, and Zenith are responding by changing product specifications and pricing. These adjustments aim to make watches more appealing to customers and help brands regain interest
events
Windup Watch Fair, held at Center415 on Fifth Avenue during New York Watch Week, brings together more than 160 watch, tech, outdoor gear, and travel brands. Its free admission makes it accessible to collectors and newcomers, and the event has grown into the world’s largest public watch fair. At
podcast
The episode explores the unique opportunities and challenges of buying watches in Japan, where the vast selection includes Japan-only models and limited editions that attract strong local interest. The hosts share experiences shopping both in person and through online marketplaces, and discuss Japan’s importance to brands such as
comparisons
The Seiko 5 Sports SRPD51 and Timex Deepwater Meridian 200 offer different takes on affordable dive-inspired watches. The Seiko pairs an SKX-inspired design, comfortable proportions, and a hand-windable 4R36 automatic movement with a 100-meter water-resistance rating, Hardlex crystal, and a bracelet that may benefit from
New Watches
The Richard Mille RM HJ-02 is the second chapter in the brand’s high-jewelry collection, designed by Cécile Guenat. Limited to 12 unique pieces across pink, violet, blue, and green color families, each watch pairs a gem-set 18K white-gold tonneau case with a skeletonized in-house
News
Bertrand Delvert has been appointed CEO of Swatch Group USA after 26 years with the company. He moved from Paris, where he had served as managing director of Swatch Group France since 2019, and previously spent 18 years at Tissot, including as global senior vice-president of marketing and communications.
video
Six watches that collectors often return to include the Casio G-Shock Square, OMEGA Seamaster Diver 300M, Tudor Black Bay (including the 58 and 54), OMEGA Speedmaster Professional, Cartier Tank and Rolex Explorer. Their lasting appeal comes from a mix of practicality, distinctive character, everyday versatility and enduring design. A
video
The hosts discuss how reputations can obscure the histories and achievements of several watch brands. Longines was once a pioneer in precision timing and chronographs; Universal Genève produced a broad range of designs beyond the Polerouter; and Movado was a significant movement maker that introduced curved-case watches. Hublot, despite
video
The Hublot Classic Fusion Tributo watches revisit the brand’s original 1980 MDM design, pairing a gold case with a black rubber strap, a pared-back black dial, a date display, and twelve domed bezel screws. Rather than merely reinterpreting the original, the Tributo models preserve its defining features while
New Watches
The PS Horology Tsuba 1720 is an integrated-bracelet watch inspired by an 18th-century pocket watch made by English watchmaker George Graham in 1719–20. Designed by Peter Speake and Creative Director Farhana Safa, it reinterprets the original’s gold dial, double chapter rings, Roman numerals, and beetle-and-
review
The Louis Vuitton Monterey Ceramic reimagines the brand’s 1988 LVII watch as a simple, approachable luxury timepiece. Its 37mm lugless case comes in polished black or deep green ceramic, paired with a white dial on the black model and a green dial with yellow hands on the green model.
Newsletter
Big names command the market, quieter watches challenge the hierarchy, and a Richard Mille split-seconds chronograph puts engineering and value on the auction block.
News
Kimi Antonelli became the youngest Formula 1 World Champion at 20 years and 68 days after finishing third at the 2026 Mexico City Grand Prix. His ten wins that season secured the title, surpassing Sebastian Vettel’s record, and made him the first Italian champion in more than 70 years.
News
The secondary watch market is estimated at 22 billion Swiss francs, or about $26.6 billion, and is growing 8 to 11 percent annually, driven in part by digital sales. Rolex, Audemars Piguet, and Patek Philippe account for 61 to 62 percent of its value, compared with 45.5 percent
Feature
Modern escapement development spans industrial advances and independent watchmakers’ reinterpretations of classical designs. Natural escapements by Laurent Ferrier, Kari Voutilainen, and F. P. Journe apply distinct materials and mechanisms, with Voutilainen emphasizing reliable traditional geometry and Journe adding an impulse-on-demand feature that can support the balance at low
auctions
A preview of Christie’s and Antiquorum’s Geneva fall watch auctions highlights notable watches, estimates, and collecting opportunities. Christie’s features high-profile F.P. Journe and Patek Philippe pieces, alongside independent watchmakers such as Grönefeld, Voutilainen, Vianney Halter, and Sylvain Pinaud. The commentary notes uncertain market conditions and