Newsletter
Issue #279 | Buying Time - October 29, 2026
Security concerns, changing retail relationships and extraordinary craftsmanship raise a simple question: how much freedom does your watch give you to enjoy it?
comparisons
The comparison pits the Invicta Pro Diver 8926OB against the San Martin SN004 MilSub, both powered by Seiko’s NH35 automatic movement, and evaluates how each watch interprets the classic Submariner aesthetic. The Invicta offers a familiar 40 mm case, mineral crystal, and aluminum bezel at a budget‑friendly price,
podcast
The episode recaps New York Watch Week, highlighting the surge in U.S. demand for luxury timepieces and the record Swiss export value of over CHF 4.3 billion in 2025. Griffin Bartsch and TanTan Wang discuss the event’s major activations—from INDIES.NYC and the FHH Forum to
podcast
The podcast episode features a conversation between aBlogtoWatch founder Ariel Adams and Jason Gallop, the founder of Roldorf & Co., a distinctive watch retailer and service center in Vancouver. Gallop recounts his upbringing in a family of goldsmiths, his training as a watchmaker, and his experience with Rolex before establishing
Security concerns, changing retail relationships and extraordinary craftsmanship raise a simple question: how much freedom does your watch give you to enjoy it?
Rolex expands its retail reach, affordable watches challenge familiar assumptions, and a platinum Hermès asks collectors to put a price on individuality.
Audemars Piguet puts its name behind pre-owned trading, independents reveal their mechanics, and auction bidders put confidence to the test.
Zenith moves upmarket, eight Rolexes fail to sell, and collectors ask what luxury is worth when it is time to cash out.
From a multimillion-dollar Patek collection to affordable watches with attitude, today’s issue explores what gives a watch an identity worth owning.
From battlefield Tudors to tomorrow’s independent icons, today’s issue asks what gives a watch a story worth keeping—and a price worth paying.
events
The Milan Watch Art Grand Exhibition showcased Patek Philippe’s 2026 showcase, featuring a mix of new releases, rare handcrafts, and artistic collaborations. Over 31,200 sq ft of space welcomed around 68,000 visitors, offering free public access, QR‑code audio guides, and interactive maps that highlighted pieces such
events
Bangkok Watch Week and Istanbul Watch Festival showcase emerging regional watch events that complement larger international fairs. Bangkok Watch Week, now in its second edition, attracted over 40,000 visitors and featured 45 international brands, a symposium with industry leaders, and the debut of the Fondation Haute Horlogerie Academy Lounge
review
The Hublot Classic Fusion Tributo revives the brand’s original 1980 design while introducing modern updates, such as a larger 38 mm case, a stepped construction, and a new automatic HUB1711 movement with a 60‑hour power reserve. Crafted in yellow gold and white gold versions, the watch combines the
review
The Pulsar Adventurer 7T62‑X084 is a rugged tool watch introduced around 2005, featuring a large 43 mm case that expands to nearly 48 mm with an eyelet bump‑out, 22 mm lug width, and a distinctive flip‑top magnifying lens. It houses the reliable 7T62 movement, offering a calendar,
New Watches
The Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art “The Legend of the Chinese Zodiac – Year of the Goat” celebrates the upcoming Lunar New Year 2027, which marks the eighth animal of the Chinese zodiac. Limited to 25 pieces in 18‑karat pink gold and 950 platinum, the 40 mm cases feature a
New Watches
The Lebond Norman Foster watch showcases a seamless integration of case and strap, reflecting architect Norman Foster’s vision of continuous form. Crafted in titanium with a 38.5 mm case that widens to 40 mm at the strap, the timepiece features a domed sapphire crystal, 50 m water resistance,
New Watches
The new CIGA Design Time Cipher Gold combines a black case with gold‑tone visible mechanics, offering a striking contrast that highlights its wandering‑hour complication. Built on a modified Miyota 9015 (CD‑08) movement, the automatic watch features a 24‑jewel, 28,800 vph caliber with a 40‑hour
New Watches
The Swedish brand E.C. Andersson introduces the Cpt, a dress‑watch‑inspired piece that blends nautical cues with mid‑century styling while retaining the brand’s distinctive dial texture and abstract indices. Housed in a compact 36.5 mm case that is 8.5 mm thick, the watch offers
New Watches
The Girard‑Perregaux Laureato Fifty Three Gold Bridges returns to the permanent collection as a refined evolution of the original Laureato line. Housed in a 41 mm stainless‑steel case with a white‑gold octagonal bezel, the watch features a striking open‑worked dial accented by rose‑gold hour markers,
New Watches
Keris has transformed the essential balance wheel of a watch into a striking kinetic sculpture called The Oscillator, measuring 27 cm in height with a 21 cm diameter wheel. The piece showcases multiple finishes—micro‑bead blasting, brushed, and polished—and features a polymer jewel with shock protection, highlighting the
Feature
The Collectibles VII exhibition in Hong Kong showcased sixteen Jaeger‑LeCoultre pieces from the Duoplan, Reverso, Memovox families and a “Precision” category, highlighting restored mid‑20th‑century vintage watches alongside modern reinterpretations. The event celebrated the brand’s vintage program, launched in 2023 for its 190th anniversary, and offered each
Feature
The piece explores the art and history of vitreous enamel, detailing its origins, techniques, and applications in decorative objects and watchmaking. It explains how enamel is created from powdered glass mixed with water, applied to metal surfaces, and fired in a kiln to produce a durable, glossy coating. Historical references
Feature
The narrative follows a journey to Svalbard where the IWC Perpetual Calendar 42 is tested in the extreme Arctic environment. Riding ATVs across the gravel roads of Longyearbyen, the watch proves its durability and wearability, handling mud, vibrations, and sub‑zero temperatures while providing essential timekeeping amid polar bear guards
Feature
The inaugural Vacheron Constantin Concours d’Élégance Horlogère, organized with Phillips, will showcase 34 finalist watches selected from more than 550 submissions spanning the period from 1755 to 1999. The competition, inspired by automotive concours events, aims to highlight exceptional timepieces for their engineering, design, rarity and historical significance, and
News
Luxury‑goods robberies in London’s West End now total about £1 million ($1.3 million) each month, prompting owners to sell rather than wear high‑end watches, jewellery and bags. Crime‑policy adviser Lucy Whing notes a 2 % drop in shop‑lifting offences, yet fear of theft remains high,
video
The upcoming changes in the Rolex aftermarket gaming scene signal a pivotal shift for collectors, introducing new dynamics that could significantly affect market values and trading strategies. This analysis highlights how the upcoming adjustments may create both challenges and opportunities, reshaping the way enthusiasts engage with Rolex AD games. Anticipated
New Watches
A TRIBUTE TO AN EXCEPTIONAL CHAMPION Some watches are born out of a need, others from a meeting. The BR-05 Chrono Snow Rocket was born from a mutual admiration between Bell & Ross and Simon Billy, French speed skiing champion and a great admirer of the Maison. Long before
comparisons
The guide showcases a curated selection of high‑end independent watches priced above £10,000 released in 2026, highlighting their unique complications, materials, and limited production runs. Each piece is described with details on case dimensions, movement specifications, power reserves, functions such as perpetual calendars, tourbillons, dual time zones, and
News
Bucherer, the Rolex‑owned jeweler, will assume control of Ben Bridge’s sole Rolex boutique in Honolulu at the start of 2027, expanding its presence in Hawaii to four Rolex doors. The transition follows Ben Bridge’s reduction from 22 Rolex locations in 2019 to ten today and will see
Feature
Breitling is partnering with the Dallas Cowboys and their globally recognized cheerleading squad, leveraging the team’s massive social media following and Netflix‑driven fame. The collaboration makes Breitling the official timepiece provider for both the Cowboys and the cheerleaders, extending its existing NFL partnership and capitalizing on the brand’
video
The video explores the intricate art of watch dial creation at Atelier Guilloché in Switzerland, highlighting Calina Shevlin’s exceptional craftsmanship. It showcases the meticulous techniques used to produce haute horology pieces, emphasizing the blend of traditional guilloché methods with contemporary design sensibilities. Through detailed visuals and commentary, the presentation
Feature
The 1927 Audemars Piguet triple calendar wristwatch in platinum is a rare example of early complicated horology, produced in a limited series of fewer than 50 pieces between 1924 and 1954. Crafted with a rectangular form case, it features a triple calendar, moon phase, and Breguet numerals, all powered by
New Watches
Grand Seiko’s limited‑edition Elegance Collection Spring Drive GS9 Club SBGY045 combines the brand’s renowned 9R31 manual‑wind movement with a striking minatonezu dial, a blue‑green gray hue inspired by historic Japanese color palettes. Housed in a 38.5 mm 316L stainless‑steel case finished with Zaratsu
New Watches
The Laurent Ferrier Grand Sport Tourbillon Iceberg revives the brand’s integrated sports watch lineage with a refined titanium case and a subtle opaline white dial that carries faint blue nuances. Measuring 44 mm in diameter and 13.40 mm thick, the watch feels more like a 41–42 mm
New Watches
Nomadic’s Dána 141 marks the brand’s transition from rugged tool watches to its first elegant dress watch, blending industrial heritage with refined design. Inspired by Belfast’s historic drawing offices and the 1:1.41 aspect ratio of A‑series paper, the rectangular 39.6 mm × 28 mm
review
The piece recounts a personal challenge to complete the Mission Miles event, a global effort to walk, run, bike, or ruck 100 miles in support of Project Recover’s mission to locate and repatriate missing-in-action service members from World War II. Using the Garmin fēnix 9 Pro, the
review
The Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Manual‑Winding ref. 1410U/000G‑H017 is a 39 mm white‑gold dress watch that blends classic 1950s styling with modern touches. Its soft, shimmering dial features an olive‑green strap, pink‑gold hour markers, and a subtle sunburst finish, while the minute markers are highlighted
video
The video discusses recent staffing reductions and upcoming price hikes, highlighting how these changes are affecting the organization and its audience. It examines the reasons behind the cuts, the expected impact on services, and the strategic decisions driving the price adjustments. Additionally, the content explores potential reactions from viewers and
Newsletter
Rolex expands its retail reach, affordable watches challenge familiar assumptions, and a platinum Hermès asks collectors to put a price on individuality.
New Watches
Sinn marks its 65th anniversary with the 140 A S Anniversary chronograph, a limited edition of 300 pieces that revives the brand’s space‑flight heritage. The watch features the proprietary SZ01 movement with a unique central 60‑minute chronograph hand, a rotatable minute scale that can serve as a
review
Alto’s ART 02 marks the brand’s first piece in a permanent collection, bringing the avant‑garde aesthetic of its earlier models into a more approachable, mainstream form. The watch features a 36 mm Grade 5 titanium case with a faceted sapphire crystal, a backward‑running seconds hand, and
events
A special exhibition in New York City celebrated the 32nd anniversary of A. Lange & Söhne’s re‑founding, gathering watches from the brand’s entire history into a retrospective showcase. Hosted at the William Ziegler Mansion near Central Park and the brand’s flagship boutique, the event featured everything
New Watches
Sinn’s autumn collection introduces three limited‑edition watches that blend the brand’s classic tool‑watch aesthetics with seasonal colour accents and thematic references. The 556 I FAZ II models, created in partnership with the Frankfurter Allgemeine Zeitung, arrive in vibrant orange and green finishes, retain a 38.5
New Watches
Nomos has expanded its Club line with the new Club 38, a larger 38.5 mm version of the beloved entry‑level watch that previously came only in a 36 mm case. Keeping the classic unisex design, the new model maintains a slim profile, 100 m water resistance, and the
Feature
Hermès is deepening its commitment to haute horology by expanding the H08 line, introducing sporty new models such as the H08 Skeleton with a vibrant green rubber strap and a distinctive cushion‑shaped fiberglass case. The brand’s recent launch showcases inventive materials—including satin‑brushed ceramic bezels, white lacquered
Feature
Chinese watchmaking has advanced significantly, with brands like Tianjin Sea‑Gull and Peacock producing high‑quality movements that rival Swiss counterparts. Affordable models from manufacturers such as Specht & Söhne, Daniel Gorman, and Farasute sell for $120‑$250 on platforms like Amazon, while higher‑end Chinese pieces reach $2,600‑
video
Testing watch accuracy involves a series of precise procedures to evaluate how well a timepiece maintains correct time under various conditions. The process typically includes placing the watch in controlled environments where temperature, humidity, and magnetic fields are monitored, and then measuring its deviation from a reference clock over extended
events
The WindUp NYC 2026 competition sent Meighan and Gabe to the fair to select watches in four categories—dive, dress, field, and a go‑anywhere‑do‑anything piece—highlighting their contrasting approaches. Meighan favored bold colors, unique materials, and striking designs, while Gabe focused on technical specifications, innovative movements, and
video
The video showcases a collection of watches and highlights the individuals who create and wear them, offering insight into the craftsmanship and personal stories behind each timepiece. It captures the visual details of the watches while exploring the passion and expertise of the people involved in their design, production, and
Feature
The pre-owned watch business keeps getting bigger. The list of brands controlling it remains remarkably short. Rolex, Audemars Piguet and Patek Philippe account for roughly 61% to 62% of secondary-market sales by value, according to LuxeConsult’s Secondary Market Report 2026. Their combined share of the primary retail
comparisons
The Tudor Pelagos FXD and Seiko Turtle represent two distinct approaches to military‑inspired dive watches. The FXD was developed with the French Navy’s combat swimmers, featuring a titanium case, chronometer‑certified MT5602 movement, fixed strap bars, and a specialized countdown bezel designed for underwater navigation. Its dark navy‑
Feature
Harry Styles’ recent Madison Square Garden residency highlighted a shift toward “corp‑core,” a fashion trend that blends classic business attire with everyday wear. His choice of an 18‑karat gold Cartier Tank Louis, a timeless square‑case watch, exemplifies the movement’s emphasis on simple, classic pieces that support
Feature
Seiko’s 2026 lineup showcases a blend of technical innovation and playful design across its collections. The brand emphasized the 8L45 movement, elevating models such as the Marinemaster and King Seiko to Grand‑Seiko‑like performance while keeping prices competitive. Highlights include the colorful Speedtimer SSC961‑965 trio, the globally
podcast
The episode features a conversation with Sébastien Chaulmontet, Sellita’s head of innovation and creator of the independent brand Albishorn. The discussion is divided into three parts: the role of Sellita in the watch industry and the distinction between Sellita and Manufacture AMT, the origins and philosophy of Albishorn with
New Watches
The WM Brown x Timex collaboration introduces a refined tank‑style dress watch crafted in stainless steel, featuring a light‑grey dial with subtle WM Brown branding, Arabic numerals, and a small seconds sub‑dial at six o’clock. Powered by a Miyota 1L40 quartz movement, the watch offers mineral
video
The video explores the importance of preserving horological heritage by delving into expert insights on vintage watches. It showcases how understanding the craftsmanship behind timepieces can deepen enthusiasts' appreciation for the art and history of watchmaking. Through detailed analysis, the discussion highlights key techniques and stories that underscore the