News
Secondary Watch Market Showing Signs of Accelerating Stress as Dealer Buy Prices Collapse
Grailzee and Bezel are now experiencing what appears to be a record number of watches failing to meet reserve prices.
editorial
The collaboration between Audemars Piguet and Swatch aimed to create a bioceramic reinterpretation of the iconic Royal Oak, dubbed “Royal Pop.” Early hype mirrored the 2022 MoonSwatch launch, generating intense excitement, speculation, and long lines of eager consumers worldwide. Despite the buzz, logistical challenges and overwhelming demand led to chaotic
New Watches
The Nouvelle Chronometrie Montre Ordinaire is a limited‑edition, 20‑piece tourbillon chronometer that blends classic 1930s Swiss watchmaking aesthetics with Japanese craftsmanship. Designed by founder Noritaka Sakurai and built with input from a retired Seiko engineer, the watch features a 38 mm case, 11 mm height, 18k gold accents,
Feature
Vacheron Constantin’s partnership with the Louvre has produced a limited series of Métiers d’Art Tribute to Great Civilizations watches that transform historic masterpieces into wearable art. Each timepiece draws inspiration from ancient cultures—Pharaonic Egypt, the Neo‑Assyrian Empire, Ancient Greece, and Imperial Rome—and incorporates authentic materials
Ludwig Oechslin’s journey intertwines archaeology, philosophy, theoretical physics and watchmaking, leading to a career that bridges academic research and hands‑on craftsmanship. After an unexpected shift from archaeology to an apprenticeship in watchmaking, he combined his scholarly interests with practical skills, eventually creating groundbreaking pieces such as the Ulysse
Citizen Watch Company’s factories in Japan showcase a blend of high‑volume production and meticulous hand‑craftsmanship, emphasizing people as the core of its watchmaking ethos. Visitors toured the Kawaguchiko dial factory near Mount Fuji, where intricate 15‑step processes produce vibrant dials essential for Eco‑Drive technology, and
Pocket watches are experiencing a notable resurgence, driven by collaborations, limited editions, and high‑profile auction results that highlight their desirability among collectors. Brands such as Hublot, Breguet, Louis Vuitton, and Christopher Ward have introduced innovative designs, while historic pieces like the 1907 J. Player & Sons “Hyper Complication” have
Cartier’s watch division has outperformed the broader Swiss‑watch market, becoming the second‑largest watch brand by sales and achieving an estimated $3 billion in 2025, up from under $2 billion in 2019. Strong performance stems from a blend of affordable pricing—average around CHF 6,000 per piece—
Audenars Piguet’s history of material innovation is traced through a series of groundbreaking Royal Oak Offshore references, from the dense, corrosion‑resistant tantalum used in the 1986 Royal Oak to the pioneering use of forged carbon in 2007, cermet in 2010, and bulk metallic glass in 2021. Each material
The showcase highlights a range of innovative watches presented at Watches & Wonders 2026, emphasizing the use of unconventional materials that push horological design forward. From H. Moser & Cie.’s Streamliner Pump, featuring forged quartz fibre that offers a lightweight, UV‑resistant case, to IWC’s Big Pilot Perpetual
New Watches
Breitling’s 2026 Chronomat collection expands with slimmer dimensions and fully integrated bracelets across three core models: the 40 mm Automatic B31, the 42 mm Chronograph B01, and the 36 mm Automatic. The updates include redesigned hidden lugs, reduced case thickness, and refined bezels, enhancing wearability while preserving the line’
review
The new Cartier Santos‑Dumont is offered in full‑gold and full‑platinum versions, each paired with a distinctive bracelet that adds significant heft and a refined aesthetic. The gold model features a black obsidian dial with gold Roman numerals, while the platinum version showcases a silver sunburst dial with
review
The Vaer A5 Atlas is a versatile everyday sports watch that balances durability, style, and functionality at an approachable price. Housed in 316L stainless steel with a flat sapphire crystal, it offers 100 m water resistance, a screw‑down crown, and a legible dial featuring luminous hands, a date window,
review
The Radiomir Bronzo PAM00760 revives Panerai’s maritime heritage by marrying the brand’s historic 1935 Radiomir design with the bronze alloy that echoes the legacy of the Eilean yacht. Housed in a 47 mm cushion‑shaped case of CuSn8 bronze, the watch features a green degradé dial, hand‑wound
events
The exclusive SoHo gathering, co‑hosted by Hodinkee, Gerald Charles, and Watches of Switzerland, marked the brand’s first U.S. showcase following the recent Watches & Wonders show. Attendees experienced a curated look at Gerald Charles’s heritage and new releases, including the bespoke Maestro GC39 Li Galli in
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The video follows Justin Hast and Emily as they explore Time+Tide’s Discovery Studio in New York City during the opening morning session of “The British Weekender.” They interview attendees and exhibitors about their watch choices, highlighting a collector’s custom‑strapped Lang & Heyne “Bangalore” 30th anniversary piece
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The chaotic launch of the Swatch × Audemars Piguet “Royal Pop” watches turned a highly anticipated release into a scene of violence and disorder, with crowds fighting, pepper spray being deployed, and police dogs intervening. The frenzy was driven by extreme scarcity and the prospect of flipping the watches for profit,
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The updated Breitling Chronomat collection is presented as a versatile, high‑performance watch line that blends durability with refined style. The new models feature a fully integrated bracelet with an innovative micro‑adjust system, allowing precise sizing on the wrist, and retain the distinctive Chronomat DNA rooted in the 1980s
deals
DognyAuction, the oldest auction house in French‑speaking Switzerland, has launched an online sale featuring 314 lots of rare watches, jewellery and design pieces, which runs until 6 p.m. CET on 3 June. The collection includes 60 highly sought‑after timepieces such as a unique 1937 18k yellow‑gold
video
The video critiques Tudor’s 2026 lineup, describing the new “Monarch” as aesthetically confused and the blue Black Bay as cheap‑looking, while acknowledging that Tudor’s build quality remains solid. It warns viewers about dealer and authorized dealer pressure, suggesting that buying a Tudor may not offer the best
News
Jean-Marie Schaller, the founder and CEO of Les Ateliers Louis Moinet, passed away at 67, leaving a profound impact on contemporary watchmaking. Known for reviving historic marques, he first rescued Louis Moinet in 2004 after acquiring the name in 2001, and earlier had helped revive Perrelet. Schaller’s dedication to
News
Japanese watchmakers Seiko and Citizen have each reached CHF 1 billion in sales for the fiscal year ending March 31, 2026, joining an exclusive club previously dominated by Swiss brands. Their strong performance, highlighted by a 15 % increase for Seiko and a 10 % rise for Citizen, contrasts with slower growth
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Chrono24’s new CEO, José Gaztelu, outlines a vision that blends artificial intelligence, machine learning, and advanced data analytics with the platform’s longstanding strengths in trust, security, and extensive dealer networks. He emphasizes that AI will enhance discovery, personalise recommendations, and streamline the customer journey, while still requiring human
Feature
Ludwig Oechslin’s journey intertwines archaeology, philosophy, theoretical physics and watchmaking, leading to a career that bridges academic research and hands‑on craftsmanship. After an unexpected shift from archaeology to an apprenticeship in watchmaking, he combined his scholarly interests with practical skills, eventually creating groundbreaking pieces such as the Ulysse
New Watches
Moritz Grossmann celebrates the 200th anniversary of its founder with two limited‑edition Backpage Tremblage watches, offered in violet and blue dial variants. Both pieces feature a fully exposed in‑house calibre 107.0, showcasing the movement’s components through a large cut‑out dial that reveals the intricate tremblage‑
New Watches
The King Seiko Vanac Limited Edition HKF004 combines a 41 mm stainless‑steel case with a silver‑white dial accented by vivid Seiko Blue details, including a blue ring, blue hands, and luminous indexes. Its integrated bracelet features a mix of brushed and polished faceted links, while the caseback showcases
New Watches
The Bremont Altitude Air Force Blue capsule collection showcases a unified lineup of pilot‑style watches featuring a distinctive RAF‑inspired blue dial across four models. The range includes three established Altitude pieces and a brand‑new MB Meteor Time Zones model, all built with durable titanium or steel Trip‑
New Watches
The Citizen Tsuno Chrono Custom Tube Screamer is a limited‑edition quartz chronograph created through a collaboration between Ibanez and Citizen, drawing its design inspiration from the iconic Ibanez TS808HWV2 overdrive pedal. Housed in a 38 mm stainless‑steel case with a green colorway that mirrors the pedal, the watch
New Watches
The Kurono Tokyo Malachite 2026 Special Projects watch showcases a striking green malachite dial set within a polished 37 mm stainless‑steel case. Designed by independent Japanese watchmaker Hajime Asaoka, the piece combines a hand‑mixed verdigris‑colored brass outer dial, Kanji zodiac hour markers, and a Miyota 90S5 automatic
review
The Chopard L.U.C 1860 Chronometer commemorates the 30th anniversary of Chopard’s Fleurier Manufacture, presenting a refined watch that blends heritage with modern horology. Housed in a 36.5 mm Lucent Steel case, the piece features a hand‑guilloché “Areuse Blue” dial inspired by the nearby river, a
video
The interview explores Patek Philippe’s 2026 releases, beginning with a restrained celebration of the Nautilus 50th anniversary that features three limited, time‑only editions without seconds or date complications, echoing vintage aesthetics. Among the highlights are the 5610P, a 38 mm platinum model that references earlier mid‑size Nautilus
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The short interview with Greubel Forsey CEO Michel Nydegger announces the final edition of the Tourbillon 24 Seconds Architecture, a movement that will be produced for the last time after a five‑year run. The watch features a deep black coating on the main plate that visually removes it, allowing
Feature
Audemars Piguet has entered the luxury padel scene by becoming the Official Timekeeper of the Qatar Airways Premier Padel Tour and partnering with world‑number‑one player Agustín Tapia. The brand’s involvement includes dedicated court clocks, branded elements at tournament venues, and plans for pro‑am events and club
New Watches
Atelier Wen’s Perception V3 advances the brand’s flagship integrated sports watch by incorporating a French‑made Pequignet automatic calibre EPM03, which offers a 4 Hz beat rate, around 65‑hour power reserve and chronometer‑grade accuracy of –4/+6 seconds per day. The movement is richly decorated with
News
Royal Pop watches from the Swatch × Audemars Piguet collaboration have seen resale prices fall by roughly six to seven percent within a single day, after an initial surge that pushed many models to four times retail value. StockX reports an average resale price of $9,476 for the full eight‑
podcast
The story examines how affordable luxury accessories, such as Royal Oak keychains and tourbillon deals, shape consumer perception within the watch industry. By breaking down the pricing strategies and marketing tactics behind these items, it reveals how they create a sense of exclusivity while remaining accessible, influencing buyers to associate
video
The rapid decline of AP is examined through a focused analysis that highlights emerging market vulnerabilities. By scrutinizing recent developments, the summary underscores the urgency for strategic responses to mitigate potential fallout. Insights emphasize the importance of timely action, illustrating how swift adjustments can address the challenges posed by AP’
Feature
The Delugs Micro-Adjust CTS Deployant Clasp introduces a tool‑free micro‑adjustment system that adds up to 3 mm of extension on each side, allowing users to fine‑tune strap fit on the wrist without removing the watch. Built on the existing CTS deployant format, the clasp improves alignment, offers
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Hamilton’s watches play a central role in the upcoming thriller Disclosure Day, set to debut on June 12, 2026. The film follows whistleblower Daniel Kellner, portrayed by Josh O’Connor, and meteorologist Margaret Fairchild, played by Emily Blunt, as they attempt to reveal the existence of aliens, while high‑
New Watches
The Horologically Unique HU‑01 “Finale” updates the brand’s earlier model by blending classic Calatrava aesthetics with modern luxury touches. It offers two dial options—a brushed‑grey finish and a jade “Yu” dial featuring a green‑blue hue and lab‑grown diamonds—both paired with a stainless‑steel
New Watches
The IWC Big Pilot's Perpetual Calendar ProSet in 5N 18‑karat gold features an olive‑green sunray dial and a 42 mm case, combining a warm rose‑gold alloy with a striking dial color that creates a luxurious yet wearable aesthetic. Its ProSet module allows forward or backward
New Watches
Trafford Watch Co. introduces the Crossroads S collection, a trio of vibrant, rectangular watches offered in three matching pairs: Surf & Seafoam, Fern & Flora, and Vine & Vellum. Each model features a compact 35×36 mm or 31×32 mm case crafted from 316L stainless steel, a double‑domed
New Watches
The Alato Ögonsten is a stylish, affordable watch that blends classic design with everyday practicality, targeting new collectors and budget‑conscious enthusiasts. Priced under US $300, it features a 38 mm stainless‑steel case, 100‑metre water resistance, and a reliable Swiss‑made Ronda 6004 quartz movement with a 40‑
New Watches
Timex and American menswear designer Todd Snyder have teamed up to reimagine the classic 1976 Lexington dress watch, delivering a stylish, rectangular timepiece that balances vintage inspiration with modern affordability. Crafted from polished stainless steel, the watch features a distinctive tan dial paired with a matching beige leather strap, while
New Watches
The Longines Legend Diver 59 revives the iconic 42 mm case first introduced in 1959, offering a refined, modern interpretation that retains the original’s bold proportions, dual crowns, and internal rotating bezel. Constructed in stainless steel with a brushed‑and‑polished finish, the watch measures 12.85 mm in
New Watches
Seiko celebrates its 145th anniversary by expanding the Presage Classic “Craftsmanship” collection with two limited‑edition models featuring Arita porcelain dials. The larger HCC007 showcases a gradient blue porcelain dial in a 39.6 mm case, while the smaller HCC004 offers a 26 mm silvered dial inspired by Japanese silk.
New Watches
Maen’s Hudson 38 GMT MKII builds on the brand’s reputation for well‑designed, compact travel watches, delivering a refined version that combines vintage aesthetics with modern specifications. The 38 mm stainless‑steel case is 11 mm thick, features a box‑domed sapphire crystal, and offers 300 m water
review
The review examines Patek Philippe’s latest Golden Ellipse ref. 5738G‑001, highlighting its olive‑green sunburst dial, matching green calfskin strap with cream stitching, and ultra‑thin white‑gold case that makes it the thinnest model in the brand’s collection. While the striking color and design echo the
review
The Tudor Pelagos FXD is presented as a modern military‑style dive watch that balances aggressive specifications with everyday wearability. Its matte titanium case, fixed strap bars, and larger knurled bezel give it a purposeful, utilitarian look, while the reduced water resistance and removal of the helium escape valve make
podcast
The episode explores the evolution of Duckworth Prestex, now operating under the Prestex name, and its latest ambitious release, the Marcato jump‑hour watch. Neil Duckworth discusses the practical reasons for positioning the jump‑hour display at nine o’clock, the musical inspiration behind the Marcato name, and the choice
New Watches
The Ochs und Junior Calendario Quattro Anni is a four‑year calendar watch that combines minimalist Bauhaus design with sophisticated engineering, requiring only a single manual correction every leap year. Built on an ETA 2824‑2 automatic movement, the watch features a reworked Maltese cross, a three‑tooth switching wheel,
video
The discussion highlights how luxury watch prices are largely driven by distribution channels and brand economics rather than the actual cost of production. A typical retail price breaks down into roughly 40% retailer margin and about 45% manufacturer margin, leaving only 10–15% for the genuine manufacturing expense, meaning a
video
The Honest Watch Dealer reports that the 2026 Rolex market is experiencing mixed performance. Overall values are rising as the supply of new, unworn pieces from dealers tightens, but several high‑profile models are lagging. The new Land‑Dweller (36 mm and 40 mm) has dropped from around £30 k
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Yasha from The Rex Watches NYC hosts a 20‑minute Q&A where he addresses viewer questions about daily operations in the Diamond District, covering topics such as buying and selling watches, strategies for approaching the shop with a timepiece, and general expectations when dealing with pre‑owned luxury
News
Citizen Watch Company reported a strong financial performance, with its watches division turnover rising 10% to ¥197 billion (approximately CHF 1 billion) for the year ended March 31 2026. Overall group sales increased 9.4% to ¥347 billion (CHF 1.7 billion) and operating profit grew 8.7% to ¥30.
News
The Royal Pop pocket watch collaboration between Audemars Piguet and Swatch launched amid overwhelming demand, leading to massive crowds that forced the closure of dozens of Swatch boutiques worldwide. Stores in regions such as the U.A.E., India, the U.K., Europe, the United States, and Canada shut down