Time Graphing Today’s Watch Universe – December 12, 2025
The watch world woke up buzzing after Australian police wrapped up one of the wildest luxury-watch heists in recent memory—a Canberra mansion hit that netted thieves roughly $10 million in goods, including a Patek Philippe 5711 “Tiffany” and a Richard Mille RM88 “Smiley.” The four French nationals behind the caper were undone not by Interpol-level theatrics but by a visit to a fast-food joint, where they were promptly arrested. Some watches have been recovered from a Sydney rental, but several headliners remain missing, so keep an eye out at your local pawnshop just in case a certain turquoise-dialed celebrity strolls in.
Meanwhile, Rolex continues tightening the bolts on its Certified Pre-Owned program, trimming eligibility to two years and shifting more servicing to authorized dealers—moves designed to speed things up and tamp down costs. CPOs still hover around 40% above grey-market pricing, but shoppers seem willing to pay for provenance and a warranty that doesn’t come from a stranger in a Telegram group chat. A CPO Daytona heading to auction could prove a telling barometer of just how far trust can stretch in the pre-owned universe.
In the UK, Breitling is feeling the squeeze, posting a 24% sales dip to £58 million and similarly sagging profits. The brand’s boutique expansion hasn’t been enough to offset a cooling retail climate, though management insists the cure is simple: better product, better service, and, presumably, fewer headwinds. Across the Channel, the vintage spotlight turns to Monaco, where a 14k yellow gold Rolex Daytona Paul Newman is expected to push toward €1 million at Antiquorum. It’s the first gold Newman to appear via an authorized retailer’s CPO program, and collectors are already circling like sharks at feeding time.
As 2025 winds down, everyone is still digesting the year’s surprise U.S. tariff rollercoaster—first a shocking 39% duty on Swiss watches, then a negotiated glide-down to 15%. Brands front-loaded shipments to blunt the impact, keeping sales surprisingly steady. High-frequency movements, magnetic escapements, and a trophy case of awards (hello, Breguet) rounded out a year that managed to be both disruptive and oddly optimistic. If 2026 wants to top that, it’s going to have to try very, very hard.
And speaking of optimism, Vacheron Constantin spent its 270th year proving heritage and innovation can indeed hold hands. The revival of the Historiques 222 and the sleek Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin bookend a year dominated by the 41-complication Les Cabinotiers Solaria Ultra Grande Complication—eight years in the making and just subtle enough for casual brunch wear. Vacheron’s creative and archival muscle was also on display through La Quête du Temps at the Louvre and a burst of Métiers d’Art creations that showed why the maison still plays its own game.
The stories kept coming: a newly unearthed 1970s Bvlgari confirmed as a Gerald Genta commission—complete with a period sketch that feels like a horological love note; microbrands reaching newfound maturity with designs from Paulin, Dennison, and Studio Underd0g collaborations; and a primer on how tachymeters work, just in case anyone wants to time themselves in a Porsche Speedster on the way to brunch. More Vacheron, too—this time through Christian Selmoni’s reflections on the maison’s cosmic, artistic, and technical tapestry.
Collectors also received a reminder that grading matters—not just for diamonds but for watches, where standardized assessment still lags behind. Insurance providers are now tailoring policies that account for market appreciation, which sounds like the kind of thing a watch lover doesn’t know they need until they absolutely do. Solar-powered calibres also had their moment, with LVMH backing next-gen tech that hides photovoltaic cells beneath transparent dials. And in a burst of creative energy, MB&F gave us its galaxy of ideas while mid-century Omega models continued their steady rise as understated vintage darlings.
Emotional stories rounded out the day, with ten collectors reflecting on their most meaningful watch gifts—reminders that the heart of horology isn’t steel or gold but memory and sentiment. And if you prefer a little steel with your sentiment, today’s showdown between the Marathon TSAR and CWC SBS diver reaffirmed that authentic military tool watches are still very much alive and marching.
From Albishorn’s imagined-history monopusher to Bell & Ross polishing up its BR-05, from Czapek’s anniversary “Sursum Corda” to the triple-threat Frederique Constant x Time+Tide releases, the new-release pipeline stayed lively. Konstantin Chaykin channeled Botticelli; Parchie went lunar for kids; Roger Dubuis delivered F1 tires on your wrist; Robot offered Czech-meets-Swiss mechanics; and Seiko unveiled a Pink Panther edition cute enough to make even the toughest diver smile. Vacheron reappeared yet again with The Master of Time, because apparently 41 complications weren’t enough. And Zeitwinkel’s new collaboration quietly reminded everyone that ten well-made pieces can matter more than a thousand loud ones.
Hands-on reviews showcased everything from the stone-dial Biver Automatique to Chopard’s L.U.C. Grand Strike with its sapphire gongs, plus charming minis like the Echo/Neutra Rivanera Piccolo, the travel-friendly Schwarz Etienne 1902 GMT, the rugged-dressy Serica Parade Linen, and the beautifully patterned Tissot PRX Damascus Steel.
On the entertainment front, YouTube and podcasts debated everything from microbrands to Hublot’s future to the psychological aftermath of buying a grail (Vacheron Constantin, again). And in the auction corner, your 2019 Vacheron Constantin Overseas Dual Time continues drawing attention, sitting at $11,000 with days to go and looking like an increasingly attractive play in a market that loves a good blue dial.
Time keeps moving—and today, it moved fast. - Michael Wolf
