Time Graphing Today's Watch Universe - February 5, 2026
Today’s watch news opens with a familiar crown-shaped mystery, as Rolex finds itself at the center of speculation after the GMT-Master II “Pepsi” quietly vanished from U.S. authorized dealer websites. The watch is still alive and well on Rolex’s own site and abroad, which only adds fuel to the rumor mill. Whether this is a temporary supply hiccup, a production issue tied to the famously tricky bezel, or something more deliberate, collectors are once again reminded that when Rolex goes silent, the market tends to talk louder—and usually faster.
Expansion and confidence were the themes elsewhere. H. Moser & Cie. marked its first boutique opening in Singapore, deepening its partnership with Cortina Watch and reinforcing the brand’s steady global footprint built on understatement rather than scale. At retail, Watches of Switzerland Group upgraded its 2026 growth outlook, pointing to resilient demand in the U.S. and UK even as margins tighten, a reminder that volume and profitability remain uneasy bedfellows in the current luxury cycle. Meanwhile, an inside look at Greubel Forsey revealed a maison in transition, balancing architectural beauty and technical ambition against a reset in production goals following the very public departure of co-founder Stephen Forsey.
Market perspective rounded out the day, with new data showing Rolex giving back a bit of secondary-market share as investor fever continues to cool and collectors gravitate toward dressier, more expressive designs. That shift was echoed in broader trend coverage highlighting the resurgence of rectangular cases, moon phases, and richer dial colors, while British Watchmakers’ Day previewed a slate of tightly limited editions that lean heavily into heritage and individuality. Vintage lovers also got a reminder that value still exists off the hype path, with the Longines Grand Prize standing out as an accessible entry into mid-century elegance.
On the new-watch front, there was no shortage of variety. Releases ranged from AVI-8’s Tuskegee Airmen tribute and Orient Star’s meteorite-dial anniversary piece to a strong showing from Audemars Piguet, including fresh Code 11.59 executions, Royal Oak stone dials, and a flying tourbillon that leaned hard into craft and materials. High horology made its presence felt as well, with Urwerk’s LightSpeed Ceramic pushing cosmic storytelling and Vacheron Constantin delivering a ruby-red Overseas Tourbillon that blends sport and spectacle.
Reviews today leaned tactile and wearable, with hands-on impressions of RGM’s railroad-inspired Model 222-RR, the compact and capable RZE Resolute 36, and Seiko’s budget-friendly mechaquartz chronographs reminding readers that enthusiasm doesn’t have to scale with price. On the screen, the video lineup offered everything from fresh hands-ons and media roundtables to factory visits and more than a little Rolex-related provocation, while the podcast circuit tackled the business end of watchmaking with a timely conversation around Baume & Mercier’s future.
At auction, attention turned to color and restraint with today’s featured report on the H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Centre Seconds “Spiced Aqua,” a near-new example that pairs summer energy with in-house seriousness. It’s a fitting capstone to a day that underscored where the market seems to be heading: less frenzy, more personality, and a renewed appreciation for watches that say something beyond their resale charts.
–Michael Wolf
