Issue #286 | Buying Time - November 9, 2026
From Geneva’s biggest winners to the watch you might design yourself, today’s BuyingTime explores what makes a timepiece matter.
BuyingTime in 60 Seconds
Rexhep Rexhepi takes watchmaking’s biggest prize as the GPHG celebrates a remarkably broad field of talent. Rolex’s café ambitions suggest that the next luxury battleground may include your coffee order, while AI is changing how watches are imagined—and how retailers prepare to sell them. New releases range from affordable outdoor watches to platinum worldtimers, with unconventional displays providing some of the day’s strongest ideas. Our comparisons ask how much extra money buys in everyday usefulness, and today’s auction puts a rare, aventurine-dial Moser under the spotlight after Friday’s Lange failed to clear its reserve.
Time Graphing Today’s Watch Universe
Who Decides What a Watch Is Worth?
Watch collecting has no shortage of judges. There are award juries, auction bidders, dealers, reviewers, social-media commentators and the friend who always knows what you should have bought instead. Today’s issue brings several of those voices together—and gives us a useful opportunity to consider how much authority we want to give them.
Start with the 2026 GPHG winners. Awards help direct attention toward work that deserves a closer look, especially when the maker cannot compete with a global luxury brand’s advertising budget. Rexhep Rexhepi’s winning Chronograph Flyback gives traditional craftsmanship a contemporary expression, reminding us that independent watchmaking can shape the broader conversation. A small workshop can produce the watch everyone else ends up discussing.
But recognition has never been distributed evenly. Our feature on the unsigned craftsmen behind historic tourbillons looks at specialists whose work survived under someone else’s name. That history should make us curious about the people behind the objects we admire. A signature on a dial tells us something important; it rarely tells us everything. The hands that made the carriage, finished the bridge or solved the awkward mechanical problem may belong to someone absent from the advertising.
Then there is the judgment we make ourselves, which tends to change as we learn. The evolving grail watch captures a familiar experience: the watch that once seemed like the destination becomes one stop along the way. Perhaps you begin with a famous sports model and later become absorbed by enamel, chronometry or a particularly elegant movement. Perhaps you move in the other direction and discover that the watch you enjoy most is the one you can wear without thinking about it.
The Rolex Submariner–Citizen Promaster comparison makes that question unusually concrete. Refinement, mechanical interest and ownership pleasure have value. So do legibility, reliability and the freedom to get on with your day. A price difference can be enormous while the difference in practical capability remains relatively small. Understanding what you are paying for makes either purchase easier to defend—to yourself, which is the audience that matters most.
Meanwhile, the tools for expressing personal taste are changing. “The Watch in Your Head,” my AI-assisted design feature, explores how quickly an idea can become a convincing product presentation. The remaining work still involves engineering, manufacturing and judgment. But making an idea visible gives more people a way to participate in the creative conversation. The same shift appears from another direction in Berry’s preparations for AI-assisted shopping: technology is beginning to influence both what we imagine and how we find it.
Even the setting in which we encounter a watch is being reconsidered. Rolex’s possible move into cafés suggests that luxury brands increasingly want to shape the hours around a purchase. Yet the appeal of the New York collectors’ gathering comes from something less scripted: people sharing what they love, explaining what they have learned and seeing familiar references through someone else’s eyes.
Taken together, these stories suggest a sensible approach to the week ahead. Let awards introduce you to unfamiliar makers. Let comparisons sharpen your understanding of value. Let auction results challenge optimistic assumptions. Then leave room for a watch to mean something that does not appear on its specification sheet or price chart. Knowledge should make collecting more personal, more satisfying and more enjoyable.
-Michael Wolf
News
The 20 Winners of the 2026 GPHG Awards
Rexhep Rexhepi’s Chronograph Flyback claimed the Aiguille d’Or as the 2026 GPHG distributed 20 prizes across a broad field of contemporary watchmaking. Ferdinand Berthoud, Audemars Piguet, Blancpain, Parmigiani Fleurier, Grand Seiko, Chopard and Piaget joined independent makers among the honorees. This year’s revised Essential, Complication and Gemset categories shifted the emphasis toward design and function, while recognition for students and exhibitions extended the celebration beyond finished wristwatches.
Rexhep Rexhepi’s RRCHF Chronograph Flyback Wins the Aiguille d’Or
The RRCHF’s victory puts the spotlight on a chronograph that combines traditional Geneva craftsmanship with a distinctive visual identity. Its offset time display, sapphire subdials and carefully finished column-wheel movement give collectors plenty to examine, while the platinum version’s blue-green Grand Feu enamel adds another layer of appeal. The award recognizes an independent maker whose approach depends on the relationship between mechanical architecture, finishing and proportion.
Rolex Develops a Taste for Cakes and Cafés
A “Rolex Café” trademark filing points toward a possible expansion into hospitality, potentially connected with the brand’s forthcoming Manhattan headquarters. A four-storey Bucherer-operated showroom would provide an obvious setting for an experience extending beyond the display counter. AP Houses and Bucherer’s existing bars offer precedents, but a successful café would need its own reason to visit. For collectors, the question is whether these spaces become welcoming destinations with an identity beyond the transaction.
Features
The Watch in Your Head
An AI-assisted, Rimowa-inspired watch concept explores how quickly an imagined object can become a coordinated set of product images, proposed specifications and advertising ideas. The experiment also exposes the work that remains: checking movement compatibility, resolving construction details and keeping the design consistent across images. Its larger proposition is intriguing. As visualization becomes easier, collectors may gain a more direct role in shaping personal watches, with skilled engineering and execution becoming even more important to the finished result.
Shaping the Tourbillon: The Unsigned Carriages
Some of watchmaking’s most celebrated mechanisms were built by specialists whose names never reached the dial. This historical investigation follows documentary traces of Ernest Guinand, Auguste Grether, Albert Pellaton-Favre and James C. Pellaton through observatory records, trade publications and surviving correspondence. It also explains why carriage shape alone can be an unreliable guide to authorship. The result is a compelling reminder that identifying a workshop tradition and identifying an individual maker require different levels of evidence.
The Grail Watch: How Our Tastes and Desires Evolve
The watch you dream about at the beginning of collecting may bear little resemblance to the one you want after years of looking, reading and wearing. Greater knowledge can redirect attention from recognizable names toward finishing, unusual mechanisms or quieter design choices. This essay treats that evolution as part of the pleasure of the hobby. Appreciating a watch without owning it can be satisfying, too, especially when discovery remains more rewarding than the pressure to acquire.
Our Favorite Citizen Watches of 2026
Citizen’s latest lineup stretches from approachable sports watches to premium quartz pieces with serious technical credentials. Highlights include the compact Tsuyosa 60, the Promaster Land GMT and the experimental Eco-Drive Photon, alongside an indigo-washi-dial Citizen and a GPS-synchronized Attesa. With featured prices spanning $495 to $3,095, the selection demonstrates how much variety sits beneath a familiar brand name. Some of the most intriguing releases remain Japan-exclusive, adding an extra layer of homework for overseas buyers.
Six Racing Chronographs Worth a Closer Look
The racing chronograph remains one of watchmaking’s most persuasive combinations of useful complication and evocative design. This selection brings together TAG Heuer, Seiko, Chopard, Tudor, Girard-Perregaux and IWC, covering historic road-racing references and contemporary Formula 1 partnerships. Differences in materials, movement architecture and production numbers create a wide spread of prices. The useful exercise is deciding whether a particular watch’s motorsport connection enhances an already appealing design.
Seven Standout Wave Dials, Beyond the Usual Dive Watches
Wave patterns can add depth, movement and changing reflections without requiring a complicated display. This roundup follows the idea across watches from Islander, Seiko, Christopher Ward, TAG Heuer, Baume & Mercier, Omega and Breguet. The techniques and visual effects vary considerably, from restrained surface texture to sculptural patterns. Omega’s familiar Seamaster provides a natural reference point, but the wider selection shows how effectively the motif can work outside its best-known setting.
Seven Years of Second Hour
Second Hour’s story began when Peter Sargison and his wife, Akira, turned a personal interest in watches into a Melbourne-based business. The Gin Clear Diver’s fast-funded Kickstarter debut led to the Mandala and an expanding range of designs. Seven years on, the brand’s development is visible in practical refinements, including the Gin Clear Mk3’s 40mm case and improved strap compatibility. Its sold-out Mosaic anniversary edition suggests that patient iteration can build a committed audience.
Staff Favorites From the GPHG 2026 Finalists, Part II
Watchonista’s staff selections offer a more personal route through the GPHG finalists. Picks range from Audemars Piguet’s elaborate calendar and astronomical watchmaking to Chopard’s restrained L.U.C 1860 and ambitious creations from Jacob & Co. and Girard-Perregaux. The interest lies in the explanations: different observers respond to different combinations of invention, beauty and emotional appeal. Read alongside the final results, the selections illustrate how much worthwhile discussion survives after the trophies are awarded.
The Top Five Watches Released in October 2026
October’s standout releases cover considerable territory: Sinn’s space-linked anniversary chronograph, a compact Breguet tourbillon, Hublot’s return to rubber-and-gold roots, Christopher Ward’s long-running C1 Loco Classic and Omega’s Bond-related Seamasters. The selection shows brands drawing on recognizable histories while finding different ways to refresh them. Technical interest ranges from specialized chronograph architecture to a 144-hour power reserve. For collectors catching up after a busy month, it provides a useful starting point.
Can Hermès Create a Watch as Iconic as the Birkin?
Hermès’ H08 continues to build its identity through materials, color and carefully controlled design evolution. A Miami presentation paired an artistic experience with new blue- and white-bezel versions, reinforcing the house’s interest in making watches part of a broader creative world. The central question is whether the H08 can develop the instant recognition enjoyed by Hermès’ most famous objects. That kind of status takes consistency, time and customers who keep choosing the design.
Twenty-Two Watches From a New York Collectors’ Gathering
A Midtown steakhouse becomes the setting for a remarkable cross-section of collecting, with vintage Rolex, Patek Philippe, Breguet, Vacheron Constantin and contemporary independents sharing table space. The watches are impressive, but the conversations give the gathering its character. Familiar references acquire new interest through condition, provenance and the reasons their owners chose them. The report captures the appeal of seeing watches in a social setting, where personal stories can be as revealing as technical specifications.
Berry’s Jewellers Prepares for AI-Assisted Shopping
Berry’s scored 96 in a study examining whether retailers make their products accessible and understandable to AI shopping agents. Jewelers performed relatively well overall, although missing delivery, returns and product-identification information still created obstacles. The implications are practical: a shopper’s assistant can only make useful comparisons when the underlying information is clear. As AI becomes another route into retail, accurate product data may become as important to discovery as a polished homepage.
Fossil Takes Its Signature CS-1 Collection to Jaipur
Fossil’s premium Signature CS-1 collection moves the brand into Swiss-made territory with a 38mm automatic and a 42mm calendar-equipped quartz model. The Jaipur launch connected the watches with the city’s astronomical and royal heritage, while the designs combine mid-century influences with distinctive primary-color accents. Prices run from $695 to $895 across the collection. The strategy creates a higher tier within Fossil’s offering while preserving the more accessible products that established its audience.
GPHG 2026: Revisiting Tom’s Picks
With the awards decided, Tom’s pre-ceremony selections make an interesting companion to the official results. His choices span understated Naoya Hida watchmaking, Bulgari gem-setting, Moser complications and the Louis Vuitton × De Bethune Sympathique clock. The feature is best read as a record of individual enthusiasm and the arguments behind it. Comparing those preferences with the jury’s decisions gives readers another way to identify watches deserving further attention.
Getting to Know Leica’s Watch Collection
Leica’s watches translate the camera maker’s interest in tactile controls, precision and purposeful design into several distinct collections. The hand-wound ZM models feature push-crown operation and unusual power-reserve indications, while the ZM 2 adds a second time zone. Automatic ZM 11 and ZM 12 models bring sportier construction and quick-change straps into the picture. Across the range, the attraction is a coherent design language that makes the connection to photography feel considered and functional.
New Watches
Approximate currency conversions use November 6 reference rates. Converted figures retain the tax basis of the original quoted price and are estimates rather than U.S. retail quotations.
Auret Mederi: A Colombian Debut With a Swiss Heart
Auret introduces itself with a 40mm steel watch built around a distinctive 12-sided bezel and a gradient guilloché dial. Black, blue and burgundy versions pair small seconds with a Swiss Sellita SW260 automatic movement, a 41-hour power reserve and 100 meters of water resistance. A coffee-flower-inspired rotor provides a thoughtful connection to the brand’s Colombian identity, while dial-matched quick-release straps complete the package. The design gives the newcomer a recognizable starting point in a competitive price category. Price: US$2,200.
Archi Works × Amsterdam Vintage Watches: The Diplomat 1.87
The Diplomat 1.87 brings jewel-set detail and vintage-inspired proportions to a 35mm steel case. The Aurora combines a cream dial with emerald baguette markers and yellow accents, while the Azure uses sapphire baguettes and gray accents; both incorporate diamond hour markers and leaf-shaped hands. A manually wound La Joux-Perret D100 Soigné movement provides 50 hours of power reserve, and production is limited to 100 examples of each version. Price: approximately US$2,512 each, excluding VAT, converted from €2,250.
Jack Mason Strat-o-timer GMT Triton Meteorite
Jack Mason gives its traveler GMT a celestial twist with an icy-blue-treated Muonionalusta meteorite dial. The 40mm steel watch combines a red-and-blue ceramic bezel, 200-meter water resistance and a Miyota 9075 movement with independently adjustable local hours. A fully luminous bezel and a bracelet with tool-free microadjustment strengthen the practical side, while the 200-piece production run adds scarcity. Buyers will need to decide whether the meteorite dial justifies the premium over the standard Strat-o-timer. Price: US$1,449.
Horologically Unique HU-02: A Chronoscope for the Wrist
The HU-02 adapts the spirit of Robert Cart’s 1920s Chronoscope pocket watches to a 38mm wristwatch with a stepped bezel and concealed crown. Its wandering-minute and jumping-hour display is driven by a modified ETA 2824-2, with a stated 32-hour power reserve. The Classic pairs polished naval brass with a cream dial, while the Silver Speciale combines steel with a grained silver dial. Both versions give collectors an unconventional display in a compact, deliberately historical package. Prices: US$3,850 for the Classic and US$3,980 for the Silver Speciale.
CWC Navy Eighty CD-1
CWC revisits its military dive-watch vocabulary with a 41mm steel case, protected crown and familiar dial layout. Contemporary upgrades include a ceramic bezel, applied luminous markers and a Sellita SW200-1 Top Grade automatic movement, supported by 300-meter water resistance. Blue and black versions use different combinations of lume, hands and straps, giving buyers some choice within a purposeful design. Production is described as small-batch rather than formally limited. Price: approximately US$3,346 including UK VAT, or US$2,789 before VAT where removal applies, converted from £2,500.
Klokers KLOK03 Automatic
Klokers moves its disc-based display into mechanical watchmaking with the KLOK03 Automatic. Three stacked, clockwise-turning discs align hours, minutes and seconds vertically, creating a deeper visual presentation inside a 40mm steel case. The Miyota 82S0 provides a 42-hour power reserve, while six colorways and conventional quick-release spring bars broaden the everyday appeal. Sapphire crystal and 30-meter water resistance complete the principal specifications. Price: approximately US$994 including VAT, with an introductory price of approximately US$882 through December 20, converted from €890 and €790 respectively.
Praesidus Montar Ranger Ana-Digi and GMT
Praesidus expands its outdoor offering with two distinctly different Montar Ranger models. The 44mm Ana-Digi combines analog hands, a digital display and a compass bezel, while the 43mm GMT uses a lighter polycarbonate case and a more conventional field-watch layout. Both offer 100-meter water resistance, and each colorway is limited to 50 pieces. The range gives buyers a choice between multifunction utility and a simpler second-time-zone presentation. Price: US$275 for either model.
Trafford Daytripper Violet Crown
Trafford looks to Austin’s evening skies for a blue-to-pink gradient dial with a double-brushed finish. Polished Arabic numerals and a luminous chapter ring sit above a modified Miyota 9075 movement, retaining the practical benefit of independently adjustable local hours. The steel case offers sapphire crystal and 100-meter water resistance, while a pink rotor continues the color story through the back. Production is limited to 200 numbered watches, with a purple leather strap and an optional steel bracelet. Price: US$799 on the supplied strap; the optional bracelet costs extra.
Briston Clubmaster Legend Compressor
Briston applies a vintage-inspired dual-crown layout to a 42mm cushion case offered in steel or tortoiseshell acetate. One crown operates the internal timing bezel, while the other handles time and date setting. A Seiko NH35 automatic movement supplies a 41-hour power reserve, with 200-meter water resistance and quick-release FKM rubber straps supporting everyday use. Black and navy dials keep the presentation familiar, while the case-material options give the collection its personality. Prices: approximately US$659 for acetate and US$681 for steel, converted from €590 and €610.
Andersen Genève Communication 45 Supersonic London
Andersen Genève’s latest worldtimer places Concorde above London’s Tower Bridge in a miniature cloisonné-enamel scene. The 38mm platinum case frames aventurine and mother-of-pearl elements, while a vintage automatic base movement works with the house’s world-time module. Created through a collaboration involving Justin Hast and London collectors, the edition is limited to 20 watches and continues the brand’s long association with imaginative travel-time displays. The supplied story lists price on request; a published Subdial ordering page provides a dealer quotation. Published dealer price: approximately US$84,016 excluding VAT, converted from CHF68,800; confirm the final U.S. quotation.
Casio’s Analog G-Shock 2500 Series
The G-Shock 2500 series takes a fully analog approach, pairing a clean dial with small seconds and a date display. Its new quartz movement uses a magnetic hand-holding system intended to support durability, while a stop-seconds feature provides a power-saving function. Resin, metal-bezel and premium steel versions extend the concept across several price levels. The appeal is a more restrained presentation of G-Shock toughness for wearers who prefer hands to digital screens. Prices: approximately US$145 for resin versions, US$280–US$300 for metal-bezel models and US$350 for the premium steel “D” edition.
Breguet Classique Souscription in Platinum
Breguet brings its single-hand Souscription wristwatch to a 40mm platinum case, linking the design to the subscription pocket watches introduced in 1796. A white Grand Feu enamel dial, blue enamel details and a carefully composed case preserve the collection’s historical character. The manually wound VS00 movement offers a 96-hour power reserve and incorporates a Nivachron hairspring, with Breguet-gold-colored movement surfaces completing the presentation. A navy alligator strap and platinum buckle suit the restrained palette. Price: approximately US$70,827 using the quoted CHF58,000 price; the separately quoted €68,000 regional price converts to approximately US$75,922, reflecting different regional pricing and potentially different tax treatment.
Omega Seamaster Diver 300M in Blue and Brown Ceramic
Omega adds two substantial ceramic interpretations of the Seamaster Diver 300M, each measuring 43.5mm. The blue version uses titanium accents, while the brown model pairs its ceramic construction with 18K Sedna Gold details. Both feature matching wave-pattern dials, rubber straps and the no-date Co-Axial Master Chronometer caliber 8806, delivering 55 hours of power reserve. Familiar dive-watch equipment includes a helium valve, screw-down crown and 300-meter water resistance. Prices: approximately US$10,830 for blue ceramic and US$16,748 for brown ceramic with Sedna Gold, converted from VAT-inclusive prices of €9,700 and €15,000.
Comparisons
Rolex Submariner vs. Citizen Promaster: What Does the Extra Money Buy?
The Submariner Date 116610 brings a refined bracelet, excellent clasp adjustment, precise bezel action and the appeal of a high-quality mechanical movement. Citizen’s Promaster BN0151-09L counters with clear legibility, solar-powered convenience and ISO-certified 200-meter dive-watch capability. At roughly $11,000 versus a $350 list price, the difference in cost far exceeds the difference in basic usefulness. The comparison helps separate practical capability from the craftsmanship, design and ownership experience that may justify a luxury purchase.
Sinn U50 vs. Oris Aquis Date
These two divers occupy similar price territory but express different priorities. Sinn’s 41mm U50 emphasizes technical toughness, a relatively slim case and 500-meter water resistance, while the 41.5mm Oris Aquis Date offers a more polished appearance and broad everyday versatility. The Sinn’s purposeful design will attract some collectors; the Oris’ styling and range of variations will persuade others. Strap flexibility also enters the discussion, particularly given the Aquis’ proprietary connections.
Citizen Promaster Diver vs. Bulova Caravelle Sea Hunter
Citizen’s Eco-Drive Promaster favors accuracy, convenience and proven tool-watch usability. Bulova’s Caravelle Sea Hunter offers a smaller 39mm case, an automatic movement and vintage-inspired character on a steel bracelet. Both have compromises, from Citizen’s stock strap to the Bulova’s bracelet refinement and taller profile. The reviewer ultimately gives Citizen the advantage for regular wear, while recognizing the Sea Hunter’s appeal to buyers seeking a compact mechanical diver with historical flavor.
Seiko 5 GMT vs. Vaer G2 Meridian GMT
The Seiko 5 GMT delivers mechanical engagement through its automatic 4R34 movement and familiar sports-watch architecture. Vaer’s quartz-powered G2 Meridian emphasizes a slimmer 39mm case, sapphire crystal, lower-maintenance ownership and 150-meter water resistance. Both use caller-style GMT arrangements, allowing independent adjustment of the 24-hour hand. The decision comes down to whether you place greater value on mechanical character or the Vaer’s lighter, more straightforward daily-wear proposition.
Reviews
H. Moser Pioneer Cylindrical Tourbillon Skeleton Aventurine Saquon Barkley Edition
Moser’s Saquon Barkley collaboration combines a skeletonized HMC 811 movement with a one-minute flying tourbillon and cylindrical hairspring. The 42.8mm steel case offers 12 ATM water resistance, although its 15.3mm thickness gives it considerable wrist presence. An aventurine subdial and white rubber strap reference Penn State’s colors, while luminous markers at 2 and 6 nod to Barkley’s jersey number. Limited to 97 pieces, the watch is priced at US$99,600.
Serica Travel Chronometer “Golden Green” GMT
Serica combines olive enamel, yellow-gold accents and a two-tone ceramic bezel in a compact 39mm steel GMT. A COSC-certified Soprod C125 movement and 200-meter water resistance provide useful credentials behind the neo-vintage appearance. The steel bracelet proves comfortable once adjusted, though sizing requires some patience. At £1,780, the watch asks buyers to place meaningful value on its distinctive dial and details, rather than selecting solely by movement and dimensions.
Farer Barnwell Pilot Series II
Farer’s Barnwell offers a warmer, less conventional interpretation of the pilot’s watch. Brown PVD-coated titanium, orange details and a sky-blue minute scale create a distinctive palette without adding much weight. Inside the 40mm case, a Sellita SW300-1 Elaboré movement provides 56 hours of power reserve, while a soft-iron cage adds magnetic protection. The £1,350 watch’s compact proportions, suede strap and 100-meter water resistance help it work beyond its aviation references.
Five German-Made Straps From StrapKlub
A good strap can change how a familiar watch looks and wears, making this examination of Berlin-based StrapKlub particularly useful. The review covers pigskin, Novonappa calfskin, French-style cowhide and two Alcantara options, with praise for comfort, material quality and execution. Greige Alcantara emerges as a favorite for its versatility. Prices generally run from €49 to €109, while additional buckle finishes and thinner options for vintage watches remain areas for development.
Peacock Black Hole Curved Guilloché Central Tourbillon
Peacock’s third-generation Black Hole puts a central flying tourbillon inside a redesigned grade 5 titanium case. A curved, heat-blued guilloché dial and disc-based time display give the watch a futuristic appearance, while its 120-hour power reserve adds substance behind the spectacle. The 43.5mm case measures 11.9mm thick, and the revised display is described as easier to read. At US$5,099, it presents an unusual proposition for collectors interested in elaborate mechanics outside the familiar Swiss names.
Favre Leuba Chief Skeleton: Nothing to Hide
Favre Leuba’s first skeletonized watch makes its openworked movement the center of attention. A 40mm cushion case, geometric bridges and visible winding components connect a 1970s-inspired exterior with contemporary mechanical styling. Seven variations offer different case and color combinations, with rubber straps and a steel bracelet available. The FLS01 automatic caliber provides 41 hours of power reserve, and the reviewed collection carries a US$4,500 price.
Why a Discounted Nomos Tangente Became a Keeper
A €1,350 purchase price made this Tangente Neomatik Platinum Gray difficult to ignore, even with a dented bezel and discolored hands. Servicing addressed most concerns, and subsequent timekeeping of approximately three seconds fast per day helped validate the decision. Its 35mm diameter, 7mm thickness and restrained dial make it an adaptable everyday watch. The account is especially useful for its honest treatment of condition compromises and the distinction between an attractive price and a satisfying ownership experience.
Armin Strom × Exquisite Timepieces Mirrored Force Resonance Zeitgeist Blue
Limited to ten examples, the Zeitgeist Blue uses an ice-blue mainplate to give Armin Strom’s resonance mechanism a distinctive setting. Two independent balances are linked by the brand’s patented resonance clutch, while an off-center white dial leaves much of the mechanical activity visible. The manually wound ARF21_ZG offers an 80-hour power reserve and twin-seconds flyback function. At US$117,000, this is a highly specialized expression of independent watchmaking, with technical architecture and hand-finishing sharing the spotlight.
Opinion
What the Golden Quarter Leaves Behind
Holiday selling produces a rush of transactions, but a gift purchase can obscure the identity of the person who will actually wear the watch. This guest column argues that retailers lose opportunities when their relationship ends with the payer or their follow-up stops after 90 days. Wishlists, warranty registration, strap adjustments, servicing and events can help connect the retailer with the recipient. The larger opportunity is turning a seasonal purchase into a useful, lasting relationship.
Events
Baume & Mercier Returns to New York
Baume & Mercier’s first New York event in a decade brought current releases and historical pieces together with collectors’ personal stories. An ice-blue 39mm Clifton and a 20-piece perpetual calendar shared attention with watches from the Riviera, Hampton, Joia and Classima families. Brand president Arnaud Barmach discussed value, his own collecting and the planned transition from Richemont to Damiani. The evening highlighted a brand whose watches often mark first purchases, family connections and long-term ownership.
Video
The Only Seven Masterpiece Watches Ever Made — Andrew Morgan Watches
Andrew Morgan considers seven watches selected for their craftsmanship and significance, asking what allows a timepiece to rise above ordinary excellence. The premise invites debate about the balance between technical achievement, design and historical influence. The supplied preview does not identify the individual watches, leaving the selections—and the arguments behind them—for the video.
The Seven Deadly Sins of Watch Collecting
Tim examines habits that can drain the enjoyment from collecting, including the complications surrounding gifts, payment decisions and social-media behavior. The discussion also considers how hostility toward other collectors’ tastes can sour an otherwise rewarding hobby. It is a useful prompt to evaluate the experience your collection creates, alongside the watches it contains.
The Watch Design Challenge: Part Two — Good Times
Justin Hast, Salim Hammad, Tim Green and Jake Ross move from discussing watches to presenting designs of their own. Each participant worked with a designer, giving the competition a practical creative dimension. Four industry judges contribute half the result, with the audience vote supplying the remainder. The format reveals how much harder it can be to resolve a design than to critique one.
Five “In-House” Swiss Movements Under Scrutiny — Chrono-Fi
Chrono-Fi questions how brands describe proprietary calibers derived from industrial movement suppliers such as Sellita. The subject deserves careful distinctions between a renamed base caliber, meaningful modification and an independently developed mechanism. Treat the video’s price and sourcing claims as arguments to examine, with particular attention to what evidence supports its headline.
The Man Who Makes Beautiful Watches — Peter Kotsa
Peter Kotsa visits Jochen Benzinger for a close look at engine turning, skeletonization and traditional hand-finishing. Historical rose engines and practiced human judgment give the workshop its character. For anyone drawn to decorated movements and textured dials, the appeal is seeing how those surfaces emerge through deliberate, skilled work.
G-Shock, Audemars Piguet’s Pre-Owned Platform and Zenith’s Direction — aBlogtoWatch
Ariel and Rick range across recent releases and broader industry questions, including whether brand-operated resale programs make bargains harder to find. Zenith’s identity and the appeal of its Chronomaster Sport receive attention alongside G-Shock, Bulgari and Hautlence. Personal taste, collecting etiquette and the cost of buying above retail give the conversation a practical thread.
Rolex Yacht-Master in Titanium vs. Land-Dweller — Time+Tide
Andrew’s titanium Yacht-Master 42 meets Zach’s Land-Dweller 36 in a comparison of two very different contemporary Rolex propositions. Lightweight construction and understated sports-watch character face a smaller watch with a technically ambitious identity. The entertaining rivalry gives viewers a reason to consider how size, material and movement interest influence preference within a single brand.
Saquon Barkley, Collaborations and What Comes Next for Moser — The 1916 Company
Tim speaks with Moser co-owner Bertrand Meylan about the Saquon Barkley Pioneer Cylindrical Tourbillon collaboration and the earlier Reebok Pump partnership. The conversation explores how such projects come together and how they fit the manufacturer’s identity. Newly released Heritage watches and the brand’s future direction broaden the discussion beyond a single limited edition.
A Closer Look at the New Breguet Marine Collection — Fratello
Fratello examines Breguet’s Marine collection through its combination of contemporary styling and traditional craftsmanship. The presentation considers how the line balances a more assertive modern identity with the historical expectations attached to the Breguet name. For collectors who associate the brand primarily with dress watches, the Marine offers another perspective on its design vocabulary.
Inside the Vault of an Independent Watch Specialist
A visit to EsperLuxe opens a window onto contemporary independent watchmaking, with names including Akrivia, De Bethune, Romain Gauthier, URWERK and Moritz Grossmann. The boutique’s pre-owned selection adds another layer, bringing rare watches from additional makers into the conversation. Christopher Daaboul’s role in sourcing and placing pieces highlights the knowledge and relationships behind this specialized corner of the market.
An Extraordinary Five-Watch Collection in New York — Scott Adam Lancaster
A tour of Sean’s five-watch collection focuses on unusual pieces, close-up details and the thinking behind a tightly curated group. The attraction is the opportunity to connect individual watches with their owner’s interests and experiences. Rather than relying on collection size, the episode explores the variety and personal meaning that a small selection can contain.
Three Watch Brands Worth Considering Under US$15,000 — Zero to Sixty
Alec from the Miami Watch Club discusses a collecting journey that began with G-Shock and expanded into Japanese, Swiss and German watches. Dial design, finishing, proportions and ownership satisfaction shape the discussion more than price alone. Comparisons involving Tudor and Rolex, plus a detour into cars, reveal a consistent interest in objects whose appeal survives beyond their badge.
What Was the Best Era for Luxury Watches? — Burdeens Jewelry, Episode 19
Was the most important modern watchmaking decade the design-driven 1970s or the mechanically ambitious 2000s? This discussion weighs the Royal Oak, Nautilus, Ingenieur and other defining designs against the rise of independent makers, modern in-house calibers and watches such as the Zeitwerk and Freak. The answer depends partly on whether you value the creation of enduring forms or the expansion of mechanical possibility.
Horological Happy Hour, Episode 28 — European Watch Company
Justin and Rob explore rare watches produced in small numbers, including pieces from Greubel Forsey, A. Lange & Söhne, Audemars Piguet, URWERK and Ferdinand Berthoud. The conversation then moves into the more subjective territory of watch-brand rankings. Together, the two strands invite listeners to consider how rarity, technical ambition and brand reputation influence their judgments.
These Watch Brands Are Insanely Underpriced — A Podcast About Watches
Andrew and James discuss brands they believe offer more than their prices suggest, considering design, reliability and reputation alongside cost. The useful question is what kind of value each watch delivers to its intended owner. Listen for the reasoning behind the recommendations and whether those priorities match your own collecting habits.
Wind Vintage on Patek, Vacheron and What’s Overpriced — Unpolished
Eric Wind and Charlie Dunne examine the shifting relationship between enthusiasm, reputation and market price. Topics include vintage Vacheron demand, neo-vintage opportunities, speculative attention and the arithmetic behind exceptionally expensive Patek Philippe watches. Their discussion of a minimal two-watch collection brings the conversation back to personal choices, while comments on authenticity underline the importance of informed examination.
Auctions
A Breguet Pocket Watch Mystery: From Paris to New Zealand
Breguet No. 2226 was sold in Paris in 1853 to a buyer recorded as “Capitaine Denny,” leaving researchers a tantalizingly incomplete trail. Its gold hunter case, archive description, wheat-ear crest and Latin motto provide clues, but the possible identities do not align neatly. Captain Richard Denny’s death before the sale complicates one apparent connection. The story demonstrates both the fascination of provenance research and the importance of leaving an attribution unresolved when the evidence stops short.
Vintage Bulova, a Zenith-Made LeGant and an Unusual Seiko 5
This online-auction roundup explores a varied group of vintage watches, including a compact 1964 Bulova, a Seiko 5 with a television-shaped dial and a LeGant chronograph made by Zenith for Montgomery Ward. A Bulova Devil Diver, Movado Datron Sub Sea and vintage IWC add further variety. Condition, originality and component details are central to the appeal—and to the homework required before bidding. Availability and bidding status should be checked at the individual listings.
Watches for ELA: Unique Pieces Supporting a Larger Purpose
The Watches for ELA charity selection brings together 21 unique lots within Christie’s Geneva Rare Watches sale on November 9. Highlights include Zinédine Zidane’s vintage Cartier Pasha, Felipe Pikullik’s skeletonized Mondphase 1 and contributions from Tissot, Kollokium, Alpina, Montblanc, Dennison and Gerald Charles. The variety gives bidders several different routes into the sale. Proceeds support the European Leukodystrophy Association’s work funding research and assisting affected patients and families.
An Ultra-Thin Tourbillon Prototype and Other Unusual Finds
An André Beyner and Maurice Grimm prototype leads this selection, offering a glimpse into the history of ultra-thin tourbillon engineering ahead of its November 10 auction. Its estimate of €40,000–€80,000 places it in a very different category from the accompanying vintage curiosities. Those include a Yema Yachtingraf Regate, a quartz Omega Seamaster Recife and a Rolex Daytona with tropical subdials. Together, they show how technical history, unusual design and condition can create distinct forms of collector interest.
Auction Report
Lange Stops Short as Moser’s Flying Hours Takes Center Stage
Friday’s November 6 auction ended without a sale for the 2023 A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Annual Calendar in white gold with silver dial, reference 238.026. Bidding reached $40,500 but failed to meet the reserve. That distinction matters: the figure records the highest bid, rather than a completed transaction.
Today’s offering shifts the focus from traditional calendar watchmaking to the 2026 H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Flying Hours Aventurine, reference 3240-0900, one of a limited edition of 100 pieces.
Moser introduced its earlier Endeavour Flying Hours in 2018, establishing a modern alternative to conventional hands through rotating hour and minute displays. The Pioneer interpretation develops that idea with the automatic HMC 240 and an instantaneous hour change. Three hour discs work around a central minute disc, turning the transition between hours into the watch’s defining event. Here, a sparkling blue aventurine dial supplies an appropriately celestial background, framed by 5N red gold and black DLC-treated titanium details.
The U.S.-located auction example is described as unworn, with box, papers and hangtags. The seller rates the dial, case, bezel and strap condition as excellent, while allowing for slight handling marks. Manufacturer specifications list a 42.8mm diameter, a 72-hour power reserve and 120-meter water resistance; the supplied auction details show 42.5mm, a discrepancy worth resolving before bidding. The combination of precious metal, rubber strap and substantial case gives this Pioneer a more assertive personality than the understated dress watches often associated with Moser.
For value context, Mayors lists the reference at $49,200, while a separate 2026 example advertised on Chrono24 carries a $49,995 asking price. These are retail and dealer asking benchmarks, not evidence of completed secondary-market sales, and they do not establish a dependable auction estimate. An unworn example with its accompanying set is attractive, but the final judgment should account for transaction fees, warranty status, condition and the relatively specialized audience for unconventional displays. Today’s result will provide a more concrete indication of bidding appetite. The auction ends at 4:40 p.m. EST on Monday, November 9, 2026.
Current bid: $31,300
Losing Time
Today’s Big Losers at Auction on Grailzee
Four watches, four failed sales, and a combined $40,599 gap between seller expectations and the highest bids. Asking prices totaled $87,499; bidders collectively offered $46,900, or 46.4% less. Apparently, enthusiasm was available. Agreement on price was extra.
The 1988 Rolex Submariner Date “Bluesy” ref. 16808, with its blue dial and yellow gold Oyster bracelet, carried a $29,000 ask but attracted a final bid of $18,000. That left an $11,000 shortfall, or 37.9% below asking. Gold, Rolex and vintage appeal gave the seller plenty to talk about. Bidders still wanted eleven thousand dollars off the conversation.
The 2025 Hublot Big Bang 42mm ref. 441.HX.1171.RX, with a skeleton dial and rubber strap, produced the largest percentage miss. Against a $15,000 ask, the high bid reached just $6,000: $9,000 short, or 60% below asking. The skeleton dial exposed the movement; the bidding exposed the distance between the seller’s expectations and this auction’s appetite.
The 2022 IWC Schaffhausen Pilot Perpetual Calendar “Rodeo Drive” ref. IW503001, with its 46.5mm case, blue dial and textile strap, delivered the largest dollar gap. Its $23,500 ask met a $10,000 final bid, leaving $13,500 unanswered, or 57.4% below asking. A perpetual calendar can account for an impressive number of future dates. Finding a buyer at this price will apparently require another one.
The 2025 Rolex Oyster Perpetual 36mm “Celebration” ref. 126000 came closest to its seller’s target, which is a modest distinction in this company. The $19,999 ask drew a $12,900 high bid: $7,099 short, or 35.5% below asking. The dial supplied the celebration. The bidding gave the seller considerably less to celebrate.
The two Rolexes held closer to their asking prices, while the Hublot and IWC attracted bids below half of theirs. That suggests a sharper disconnect on the latter pair, although ambitious asking prices can make any watch’s result look especially grim. These four outcomes alone cannot establish market values or prove a broader decline.
Closing Time
Thank you for spending part of your day with BuyingTime. Whether today’s favorite came from an award-winning independent, an affordable comparison or a watchmaker’s bench, we hope it gave you something worth looking at more closely. Enjoy what is on your wrist—and we’ll see you tomorrow.
